Relishing Kadamakkudy's evening

It was before dusk at Kadamakkudy village,  I drove through the narrow road while stretches of Pokkali fields on the both sides sweetend my sight.

Kadamakkudy, a group of fourteen islands,  is considered to be one of the islands that arose during the floods in 1341. Situated about 12 kms from Edapally, in the Indian state of Kerala, it is a small, lush green village surrounded by a meadow.  The village is famous for its scenic beauty with rivers, pokkali fields and shrimp buds.

There was very little traffic on the road lining between the fields, making it perfect for an evening stroll. I sat on the edge and a cool evening breeze skimmed over water and touched me.

We walked as far as possible.  We could see fishermen on the way. Again we resumed our drive and had a halt at the boat jetty.  The ferry route can take you from one island to another and the boatman charged Rs.10 per head. From the boat, I got a beautiful view of the sunset,  a clear round sun in pink color, sinking behind the  trees with  different shades of orange and yellow creating an  amazing art work in the sky . Slowly, dark clouds had begun to envelope the sky..

Kadamakkudy is a favorite destination not only for tourists but also for cyclists and photographers. It gets more beautiful at sunrise and sunset. Tourists mostly visit this place during this time. 

Pokkali farming is done here for 6 months and prawn culture for the next 6 months. 

It is a bird's paradise for bird  watchers. The area is home to over 75 spcies of migratory birds. February to May is the ideal time for bird watching. 

It doesn't have restaurants typical of tourist spots. Instead, you can enjoy good food from toddy shop. On our drive back home , my mind  was relieved  with  the  beautiful sunset, chinese fishing nets and cool breeze. It was a joy ride in the truest sense.

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Absorb The Beauty of Western Ghats at Kathirumudi Near Thiruvananthapuram

It is necessary to heal our body and mind to enjoy  life in its fullest while travelling. Therefore, I reached Thiruvananthapuram on Saturday night and checked into my hotel for the next day's trek to Kathirumudi, which is situated in Agasthya mountain ranges located in Thiruvananthapuram district, in the Indian state of Kerala.

In the next morning,  five of us gathered at  Thampanoor, and started to Kappukad in a car at around 6.30 am as the sun was rising. Had a pit stop for breakfast. It was a Diwali day and most of the shops and hotels were closed.

As per the itinerary, our reporting  at Kappukad Elephant Rehabilitation Center was at 8.00 AM. You will also get bus from  Thambanoor KSRTC Bus stand to Kottur. Kottur is an important place  and is situated 30 km from Thiruvananthapuram.  Kappukad which is the base of this trek, is 2 km far from Kottur.  

Reached Kappukad at around 8.30 am. Those who had reached earlier got an opportunity to  walk around the Elephant Rehabilitation Center. It was around 9 am, when rest of the group had arrived. On arrival, we finished formal registration process and moved to the starting point of trek which is about 5 kms from Kappukad. We stopped our car in between where underground water was collected and which flowed through a small pipe. Most of us emptied our water bottles and collected fresh herbal water from the pipe.

We kept our luggage in the car and carried lunch packet and water bottle in a small bag. After a brief introduction, we started our trek along with two guides.

The trek is a moderate plus hike and  the trek winds up in a gradual ascend through thick shola forest,  rock structures, narrow paths and grass lands that open up for beautiful views. You will also come across plenty of small insects along the trek trail.

Kathirumudi is situated in the south of Agastyakoodam hill range in the Western ghats. The Agastya Mountains are rich in biodiversity and is home for many indigenous creatures.

Then we reached a vast area fenced with rails, from there, we got the majestic view of the Agasthyakoodam mountain on the left side.

Finally we reached the summit of Kathirumudi, which was a rock structure. From the peak, we could get the most beautiful views of Agasthya hills, Neyyar and Peppara lakes. This is the only place you can enjoy the view of these three wonderful places.

We saw Agastya hill and Pandava hill from the distance. From here we got a breath-taking view of the entire mountain range. The rolling hills covered with clouds looked blue from a distance.

A little  area of the peak was also covered with lichens, mosses and ferns.

We trekked further crossing four small peaks with ups and downs, till we reached  a small stream. Had packed lunch while sitting  near  the stream. Earlier there was a water tank, later destroyed by elephants. We  rested for a while, took pictures and started descend.

A difficult descend, we had to stop every now and then to rest.  It was around 3 pm,  when we reached back to the starting point of the trek. The overall trek distance is 10 km. Next up in our chart was a bath in the nearby waterfalls. We walked in bare foot till the waterfall area which is around 1 km from the parking area. It was not a big waterfall, but small streams coming down over rocks looked serene. We sat on tbe rocks near the descending point of water, and relaxed for a while. Water was cold and a bath  beneath the falls, gave a lot of relief to us. 

After a  bath, we started our return journey. We stopped at Kottur for a tea and review of the trek. A beautiful challenging one day trial with a mixture of shola forest,  rock structures, narrow paths and grass lands. 

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Water Lily Bloom at Malarikkal

Kerala, with its natural beauty and abundant natural resources is no longer left behind.  In the past few years, Water Lily bloom  have become a phenomenon across different parts of  Kottayam district, in the Indian Sate of Kerala.  Malarikal, which is situated adjacent to the Thiruvarpu Road at Illikkal Town, near Kottayam,  has been the most visited place this year for witnessing the Water Lily bloom.

From Kass plauto in Maharashtra to the Neelakurinji bloom in Munnar, blooming of seasonal flowers tempt me to visit the places in a celebrated mood. And this time, it was the turn of water lilies at Malarikkal. This year, blooming of water lilies (Nymphaea Stellata or ambal in local parlance) will last only till the mid of November.

Me and my wife started at 5 am in the early morning from Kochi. The flowers bloom during the night and wither during daytime. It is better to visit the place before 11 am.

When we reached the place, the vast stretch of paddy fields were seen blanketed in an unearthly pink shade.  People were flocking Malarikkal for taking photos. Parked my car far away from the actual spot and walked a long way by crossing the bridge.

We walked some distance between the water lilies in the paddy field and then took a boatride between the pink beauties. They charged Rs.100 per head.

The  900-acre water lily or Ambal flowers blooms when there is no farming in the field. As and when the water level starts receding, the farmers  prepare the land for cultivation, by spraying pesticides to remove these flowers.

A day trip to  Malarikal for “water lily bloom viewing” is a favourite pastime for many Keralities during this season.  It’s time to refresh your eyes with the beautiful sight of blooming flowers.

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Chasing footprints of Adi Shankaracharya

There is something exciting about an hours drive from Kochi  to Kalady - the birth place of Sri Sankaracharya. Kalady is just 42 kms from Kochi, but which we had wanted to visit for the last 20 years.  We have a  tendency to leave nearby places unseen  for a 'later' time for the simple reason that  we can always go  there anytime.  Kalady had been one such place in my list. One fine Sunday morning, me and my wife travelled to Kalady on  the auspecious day of Maha Navami.

Kalady literally means footprints.  The story goes somewhat like this. Poorna or Periyar river used to flow some distance away from the current position. Once young, Shankara's mother fainted while walking to the river and he prayed to Lord Krishna. Krishna blessed him that the river will follow through the place marked by young Shankara's feet. This is how he brought the river to the village. From that time onwards, the place came to be known as 'Kalady'.

I was trying to remember the birth of Sri Shankara which I read in books.   Sri Sankara was born in a Namboothiri family to Shivaguru and Aryamba at Kalady. His parents with the blesdings of  Lord Siva opted a son who would be great and depart this world at 32,  instead of a son who would  lead a normal life for a long time.

AADI SHANKARA KEERTI STAMBA MANDAPAM

We made our entry into the mandapam. The entrance to the memorial, is guarded by two elephant statues. Inside, a circular ramp takes you up. I noticed that there are three steps each. On your way up, you can watch the entire life story of the Shankaracharya. The various episodes  of his life  are sculpted and painted on the walls.  You can also see the statues of Ganapati, Karthikeya, Surya, Vishnu, Shakti and Siva. What really seemed quite reasonable to me is the entry fee of Rs.5, which  is collected as donation.

SRIKRISHNA TEMPLE

This temple is known as the ancestral deity of Sri Shankaracharya. There are murals depicting Adi Shankara as a kid worshipping Krishna with his mother. Another mural shows him playing with a crocodile.

AADI SHANKARA JANAM BHUMI KSHETRA

This complex also houses the samadhi of Aryamba, mother of Adi Shankaracharya. Since our visit was on the day of Maha Navami, which  is one of the important festival of this famous temple,  there was a huge rush inside the temple.

CROCODILE GHAT OR MUTHALA KADAVU

Poorna or Periyar gently flows behind the Aadi Shankara Janam Bhuni Kshetra. We walked through the  path beside Srikrishna temple leading to the river. We climbed down steps that descended to the bank of river. I could see Kalady bridge from here.  I sat on a stone. Stories flashed through my mind. 

According to legends, when little Shankara wanted to sanyas, his mother did not agree for it. He went into the river and a crocodile caught his leg. Shankara told his mother that the crocodile would  let him go if she agreed to let him take sanyas.  Thus at the age of eight with the permission of his mother,   he left his home for education.

I sat there for a few minutes... the feeling was indescribable. Soon we were back on the road.

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Walking with the Wild at Silent Valley National Park

On a cold Saturday morning, I started  my drive from Shoranur to Pathiripala. The journey to the Silent Valley National Park had begun. I  had already discussed  with Mr.Anil to join with him to Mukkali  from his house at Pathiripala.  To reach Pathiripala at the crack of dawn, I started at 5 am. We started off from Pathiripala at around 6.00 am and our route was Kongad-Mannarkad-Mukkali. The road was bad and less traffic. After Mannarkad, we took a small break. Since we had to drive through ghat road, we restricted our break to only 10 minutes. It was the first time I was travelling in this route.

The drive winds through ghat road and hair pin curves. Our drive ended at parking area of  Silent Valley National Park Information Centre, Mukkali at around 8 am. After breakfast, we, a gang of 20, started from Mukkali to Panthamthodu camp site in a mini bus at around 9 am. Our guide Mr.Ameen showed us the final tribal settlement on the way.

Final tribal settlement on the way to Silent Valley

It was around 11 am, when we reached Panthamthodu camp, a single storey building beside a stream.  It was a 13 km journey through the forest and it was quite an off-road experience. There was no power connection to the camp site and it was fully dependent upon solar energy..

Dumping my luggaage, I had straight dashed off for a Kattan Chai (black tea). Our first activity was a Jeep safari through the reserve forest till Sairandri watch tower.  The road is unpaved and terrain making the ride very bumpy.  We passed through an Arch gate and  from this place onwards, the core zone of the Silent Valley National Park starts. The majestic Arch forms an object of great beauty in the midst of the forest.

The sanctuary in itself was picturesque with a variety of flora and fauna along the way. We crossed many water falls on the way.

We were lucky to see so many species of colorful butterflies. It covers 10 kms from the camp site to the watchtower.

Watch Tower

The Silent Valley is called "Sairandhrivanam"  by locals. You will get panoramic view of the entire valley from the top of  watch tower. You can watch the river Kunthipuzha which runs like a silver line below.

view of river Kunthipuzha from the top of watch tower

Then trek down to dam site on the Kunthipuzha, which is 1.5 kms away from the watch tower. I walked most part of the way till we reached Kunthipuzha , crossing small streams, or rather beside larger streams.

The river is characterised by its crystal clear water.  Our walk ended near to the broken metal suspension bridge. Kunthipuzha , a picturesque stream, making its way under verdant banks, sheltered by trees that dipped their boughs into the murmuring waters. The river with its green colored water looked beautiful.

We were lucky to spot few lion tailed macaque's on the way. 

Meanwhile, it started raining. We reached back to the  campsite at around 4 pm and had lunch.  It was fresh, homely food with a decent selection of vegetarian food

We gathered on the upper floor of the building at 7 pm with tea and snacks - Ada. Everything served was hot and fresh. There was knowledge session by Mr.Ameen and Mr.Akhil, fun filled activities and talks. It was a great get together, a time to relax and get to know new members.

By 10 pm, our dinner was ready. The staff were so friendly and they served us hot vegetarian food. Mr. Ameen said that 4 hour sleep in Silent Valley would  freshen us  and that  all of us  would  wake up at 5 am. We could hear the sound of stream flowing nearby. I drifted off to sleep.

Day 2

We woke up at 5 am justifying the words of Mr. Ameen last day.  I had my tea. What a glorious morning to be alive.  Had a morning walk till 250 year old mango tree known as grandmother tree. We could hear the cripping of birds on the way.  Had breakfast at 7.30 am.

PARUVAKULAM TREK  

With the hopes of good weather, a group of 20 enthusiasts, who were not scared to have leech bite, headed to unexplored terrain of Silent valley.  Each of us along with guides was ready to conquer the challenges of terrain and make spectacular memories along the way.

Started our trek at around 8 am. First few kms walk was through jeep road. Then deviated to forest path. We crossed coffee plantations which is run by a trust. Then a steep hike through thick forest.

It was all very scenic and I enjoyed every minute. We passed through many waterfalls on the way. In the middle of our walk, we sat on a rock for a rest. Then we reached an open area. We could see the hills coverd grass lands. We reached the top of the moutain.

We sat on the top of the mountain. We could see peaks in different heights and shola forests in between. Overhanging the green meadows and the dark woods and pinnacles with multiple color trees made the whole area beautiful. Soon a fine mist  covered the whole area. I took several photographs  and could not wait to see how they turned out after being developed.

We started back through different route. It started raining. We walked through the  thick forest and there was little light.  We saw an elephant dung on the way. Suddenly our guide asked us to keep silent. There was one single elephant standing few meters away and our peace and tranquillity shattered. We walked fast in silence. We crossed so many streams on the way and found leeches in water.

It was around 3 pm, when we reached back to the camp and freshened up. Again, we were served tasty lunch with variety of foods. All were ready for  a review at 4'o  clock. We bid goodbye to the camp site at around 5.30 pm.

When we reached back to Mukkali, Park authorites gave a gift - a honey bottle - to each of us. Our return route was Mukkali-Mannarkad-Ambalappara-Pathiripala. When I drove my car to Shoranur through darkness,  scenes from the trip raced through my mind. A two day camping at Silent Valley had been an escape from the never ending complications of daily life

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Sacred Journeys : Sri Subramanya Temple at Peralassery

Stepwell at Peralassery Sri Subramanya Temple

I  travelled to Kannur district to visit three main temples, for reasons best known to me. Situated 14 km away from Kannur,  in the Indian state of Kerala,  the snake temple - Sri Subramanya Temple in Peralassery is unique for its architecture and associated legends

DIVINE EXPERIENCE AT THE TEMPLE

According to legend, Sri Subramanya had visited the area in the form of a snake. The story goes that, Prince of Ayodhya, Sri Ram, during his course of wanderings in the forests of South India in search of his kidnapped spouse Sita, visited this particular site in Peralassery. Sri Ram sensed the presence of Sri Subramanya and decided to install an idol of Lord Subramanya. This is as far as legends go. Other deities in the temple include Ayyappa, Ganapathi, Naga and Bhagawathi.

Offering of hen’s eggs to snake gods is a key feature at Peralassery Sri Subramanya temple. The prasadam is delicious payasam, made out of rice, milk and jaggery pudding.

MARVEL AT THE ARCHITECTURE OF STEPWELL

The stepwell at Peralassery Sri Subramanya Temple is the largest of its kind in Kerala. The well itself is geometrical star-shaped, and has steps leading to it. 

The steps leading to the water is the first thing that attracts you. The stepwell resembles the many baoris (stepwells) found in parts of North and West India such as Delhi, Rajasthan and Gujarat. There are many stories, which make these structures interesting. As per the local belief, the waters of Cauvery River mysteriously make their way to the stepwell on Thula Sankramam (Tula Sankranti–Libra Solstice). The pond is full of fish. The beauty, architecture and legend associated with this place will give you a different kind of experience.


TEMPLES IN AND AROUND

Parassinikadavu Sri Muthappan temple is just 29 km away from Peralassery temple. There are many features to make this temple unique.  The deity worshiped in this temple is Sree Muthappan, a personification of two Gods – Thiruvappana (Lord Vishnu) and Vellatom (Lord Shiva). His life is best portrayed through a traditional dance known as Muthappan Theyyam.  One of the interesting fact is that, here dogs are considered to be sacred as it’s the vehicle of Lord Muthappan. The temple is a private one belonging to a family. The temple provides free meals to all visitors.

Sri Rajarajeswara temple is a Shiva temple located in Taliparambu and  is just 37 kms from Peralassery Temple. Taliparambu is one among 108 Shiva Temples in Kerala created by Lord Parasurama and is regarded as one of the ancient Shakti Peethams. This temple is also popularly known as Rajarajeswari Temple.  As per the custom, only men enter the Naalambalam during  daytime, while women stand outside. Women can enter the Naalambalm all days after the Athazha pooja is over in the evening.

There are plenty of other places to visit when traveling to Kannur.  I have been a huge fan of Theyyam - the ancient ritual in Northern Kerala.  This time my purpose is not sight seeing. I bid adiue to Kannur only to  return again to watch the Theyyam , a few months later !

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Trekking and Camping at Brahmagiri Hills

Experience the tranquility of Thirunelli temple situated on the foot of Brahmagiri hills and a walk through a land blessed by untouched nature and enjoy the monsoon season in the lush green forest of Wayanad and Western Ghats.

The camp was conducted on July 27 and 28 at Thirunelli, Wayanad district in the Indian Sate of Kerala. There were 40 participants in the camp. We, a gang of 20, from Ernakulam started at 6.30 am in a 20 seater Force Van. Participants  boarded from different locations. We had  a stop at Akshya hotel near Pookunnam for breakfast. After that our route was Ponnani -Kozhikode- Thamarassery- Mananthavadi-Thirunelli. 

Had lunch from a hotel at Kozhikode Bypass. And further uphill most of the way, the most picturesque being the hairpin curves at Thamarassery Ghat Pass also known as Thararassery Churam. This is the first time am travelling in this route. I craned my neck out of the Van while passing through hairpin curves, which I had seen in movies. I could see visitors taking photos from the view point, but we did not stop with a promise from the coordinators  that we will stop at this place during our return journey.

We passed Kuttettan's Unniyappamkada at Thetta road, on the way to Thirunelli.  Travellers on a trip to Thirunelli Temple and tourists  are  fans of this Unniyappam.  The secret of this Unniyappam is that it is made  of pure coconut oil from Kuttiyadi and it is larger than the normal Unniyappam.

Further ride is through deep forest with bamboo groves on both sides. Spotted bunch of deer on the way. We were lucky to spot one barking deer . When I took my camera, it ran away. 

The forest department has come up with instructions to comply with the forest rules. Do not get out of the vehicle, be careful not to blow the horn, drive carefully, don't intentionally harm animals, most importantly, don't throw away plastic debris etc.

We saw one elephant passing through the forest.

Our Van sopped in front of the Appappara Forest Office for reporting. It was a 11 hour journey and all of us were tired.  Most of us got out of the vehicle to watch the surroundings. Spotted one Malabar giant squirel passing through tree branches.

Our stay was arranged in a homestay run by Mr. Prasad, which is near to the  Agraharam Resort. Then a short walk to Thirunelli temple which is dedicated to Lord Maha Vishnu, which is situated on the side of Brahmagiri hills. As per records, it was an important pilgrimage centre at time of Tamil Chera King Bhaskara Ravi Varma.

Thirunelli Temple

It was around 8 pm. After pooja, we had a wonderful dharsan of the  Lord. Had prasadam as Uppuma with Pickle and Chukku Kapi. It was good especially in the rainy season.

Soon we were back to the camp site. Since there was a possibility of elephants on the way, we took vehicle on back to the camp. We tried to find the path through as darkness overtook us.

There was a session about dos and donts for the next day trekking. Our dinner was waiting for us. Had fabulous hot Kanji Payar, Vegetables, Leaf curry and Pappad.

We retired to bed.

DAY 2

After break fast,  we assembled at Thirunelli Inspection Bunglaw. All of us collected Tomato rice packet for lunch. After a few instructions from the coordinators, we started our trek. Two of the forest officials  also accompanied us.  We crossed few small streams on the way.

A few kilometres of trekking,  we crossed a stream with water so crystal clear, cool and pure that we drank it straight. I spotted pug marks of giant tigers in a tree which has a height of about 15 feet.

And all of us encountered many leech bites on the forest trekking path. We already had salt with us to remove leeches from our body.

After forest treking path, we reached grassland area. From there, we got wonderful view of Thirunelli Temple and surroundings.

Ariel view of Thirunelli temple and surroundings

Soon we reached near to the watch tower. From the watch tower, you can see the way to Pakshi Pathalam. Trekking to this place is now banned. Then we started to climb the hills .

When we are going up, we could see the view of  the watch tower below.

Soon we reached the top of the final hill after crossing three small hills. From there you can see a village in  Karnataka state. We descended back to the watch tower. We dined on the grass, in the open air, surrounded by this scenery. 

We returned down the hills and sometimes took shotcuts through the forest and arrived  at our camp by 3.30 pm.

Me and Mr.Biju decided to visit Papanasini. We gladly hired an auto and reached the temple. Then few steps down to the place. we decided to take bath under the waterfalls that are coming through Papanasini.

Papanasini is a wild stream that originates from the Brahmagiri hills which later joins River Kalindi. It is believed that River Ganga and River Saraswathi join in Papanasini and is known as the Southern Kashi.

It is a majestic stream falling under a bridge, sweeping between mountainous banks, which is  peace and enjoyment; and after a quick bath , we  returned to the resort.

When we reached  the resort, the rest of the team had already arrived. By that time Kappa  and black tea was ready. 

It was around 5'o  clock, we started back to Ernakulam.

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Train journey from Shoranur to Nilambur

How about travelling in a train with a group of 50 friends.  On a Sunday morning, we were travelling from Shoranur to Nilambur. The focus of this train journey is  not reaching the destination but to enjoy the day with like minded people. This route is often described as " Green Tunnel" because both sides of the railway line is covered by trees, mostly teak. Since we were travelling in monsoon, nature had become more greener.

We started at 6.30 am from Shoranur.  It is a 60 km journey, that will generally take about 2 hours. As it inches through dense greenery,  it crosses bridges, rivers etc . It  is one of the most scenic train routes in Kerala. We reached Nilambur at around 9.30 am.

Nilambur is located in  Malappuram district which is a world of fascinating views. There is an argument that the name 'Nilambur' is derived from the word 'Nilamburam'. It means that the place is the land of bamboo's. This is the city where you can see the influence of  the Chaliyar river and the Nilgiri hills.

After having  breakfast, we proceeded to DFO bungalow which is the first place in our chart. We splitted into two vehicles. On reaching the bungalow, the team first visited the bungalow and a few of them even proceeded to sky walkway.

The bungalow is located on the banks of the Chaliyar river amidst dense trees. It was built by the British in 1928. The main parts the building are made of spear and teak. The main attraction of the bungalow is spacious halls and varandahs. The bungalow was the official residence of DFO till 1970.

Old DFO Bunglow

Then we proceeded to sky walkway. It is a six meters walkway and you can enjoy the sound of birds chirping by walking among trees and touching the tallest branches. Regardless of how long the bridge is, the views are endlessly astounding.

Sky Walkway

Next place in our chart was Conolly's Plot. The main attraction of the place ia a hanging bridge across Chaliyar river.

Though I started walking on it, I was so much scared and couldn't even reach the middle of the bridge. But the surrounding river view as seen from this bridge was just breath taking.

Once you cross the bridge, you will reach Cannoli Plot - one of the oldest teak plantations anywhere in the world.

The place was named after H.V Conolly, the district collector of Malabar during British rule, who  along with local sub forest conservstor Chathu Menon, successfully carried out planting of new teak trees between 1841 and 1885. In 1993, the area was preserved for research purpose.

One of the major attractions in the plot is the oldest teak known as Kannimari.

Conolly's Plot

It was around 2pm. Almost everyone was hungry so we headed for lunch. Post lunch, we moved to last place in our chart, Teak Museum. It is a must see.

You can see the root-system of a gigantic tree in full size. Some of the attractions are the traditional granary and a miniature model of a sailing vessel(Uru), made of a teak wood.

Teak Museum

I got back to the  station with a lot of great memories in my head. I could smell that hash for days.

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A Monsoon Weekend in Agumbe

When it come for long travel, I always prefer flight or train. But  this time I was excited as am going to travel from Ernakulam to Udupi in Rajadhani Express. And I wanted to add an extra dose of fun by travelling in First AC.  This is the first time I was  traveling in Rajdhani Express. Since my booking was in First class, I was allotted  a  coupe. It looked like a  mobile dormitory and it can accomodate two persons.

I boarded the train on 21st June from Ernakulam South at 10.35 pm. My co traveller Mr.Ronald introduced to me. He was also travelling to Udupi. We settled in feeling like a VIP travelling in a train.  Within few minutes, a waiter came to arrange my bed.

I slept through the night, with no disturbance. By 6 clock there was a knock on the door, my breakfast and tea was ready. By the time we completed the breakfast, we were inching towards Udupi station. 

Reached Udupi at around 7 am. Took a cab with other four friends to Agumbe. The cab ride to Agumbe was memorable. The scenary - valleys, greenary - was breathtaking, as was the way .The driver was taking  hairpin curves.  Reached agumbe at around 9 clock.

Agumbe is situated in  South Kannada and is a small village in Theerthahally Thaluk in Shimoga district. It is about 2000 feet above sea level and is getting an average rainfall of 7620 per year and is known as Chirapunji of South India.  There is no better place than Agumbe to walk in the rain forest and greenary.  If you have read Malgudi days, a book by R.K Narayan or seen the brilliantly televised version by director Shankar Nag, you will surely associate with Agumbe.

Our stay was arranged in Mallya Residency which is the only lodge in this area. It is  facing a small bus stand and few small houses.

We assembelled in a vast grass land area. We had an introduction session and some fun filled activities. Then we moved to Sringeri which is a pilgrimage center that is best known for coffee plantations.

Legend says that while on a trip to Tunga river, Adi Sankaracharya saw a special sight and installed the first math. I have been working on that story for a long time. Sringeri town today revolves around the Sharadamba Temple and Sharada Peetham with Tunga River flowing beside them.

There is a hanging bridge across Tunga river and we spent some time by crossing the bridge.

From the bridge, you can see the newly opened temple gopura.

Sharada Devi is the principal presiding deity of Sringeri. It is believed that Adi Shankara brought Sharada Devi here from Kashmir.

Sharadamba temple

Sree Vidyasankara temple is one of the major attractions of Sringeri. Walked around the temple and the multitude sculptures is simply amazing. It was constructed in the first century in Hoysala, Vijayanagara architectural style.

Sree vidyasankara temple

After visiting the temple you can go down to Tunga river. You can see devotees feeding the fishes on the shores of Tunga river. Even you can drink the cold water flowing from the rain forests far away.

It was alrady 2 pm and all of us were hungry. We stopped our van on our way to Sirimane waterfalls. We opened our packed lunch. We could hear gurgling rivulets of water rush few meters away. We washed our hands from this rivulet. After lunch, we hit the road.

We made our way through down steps from the parking area until we were standing in front of the Sirimane waterfalls. The rocks below the falls were slippery. We made our way, losing our steps several times as we climbed to the falls.  The cold water of the falls chilled me to the bone. Dodging beneath the waterfalls had soaked everything.

Sirimane Waterfalls

Day 2

In the morning we went to Kundadri Hills for sunrise. It is situated at a distance of about 17 km from the lodge. As you climb the steps, you can enjoy the mist spreading the whole area. 

The main attraction in this place is  an ancient Jain temple. Then of course clouds and cold winds. There are two pools near the temple. From the view point on the right side of the temple, you can see Agumbe village and farms. 

A gentle fog begins to envelop us and visibility soon drops to a few metres and it provides a stunning natural spectacle.  And this is an experience which I love - walking through the mist.

It was beginning to rain  heavily and the sky was darkening with mist. We left the place as we had to visit Kavaledurga Fort.

Had break fast on our way to Kavaledurga fort. Our break fast was arranged in one house. They arranged hot Kesari bath, Khara bath and badam milk. We strolled around the farm and planted one tree.

The journey to Kavaledurga fort is also memmorable. A short trek from the main road leads to the Fort. This fort was built in the 9th century. The Fort now seen was renovated in the 16th and 17th centuries by Venkatappa Nayaka. The remains of the old palace can be seen today. You have to pass through seven levels to reach the summit and at each level, there is a gate.

Kavaledurga Fort

I have to say, the ruins are impressive. The grounds are massive and whole structure is shrouded in mystery.  The ruins at the top is breathtaking. Everything around us was wet. After walking for hours, our feet were cold.

At the summit of the hill, there is a temple known as Srikanthesvara temple. There is big pond at the top with well laid steps. Soon we started to descend and proceeded to Agumbe for lunch.

After lunch and rest for sometime, the last activity in our chart was a private Forest Walk. We began to walk with the guidance of one forest expert. We stopped to look at everything around us. The blooming of wild mushrooms growing by the road have color mix of yellow and orange.

 

We returned to our lodge and packed up. We were trying to figure out how to make our way back to Udupi to catch the train to Kochi. Four of us took a cab and got down at Manipal for dinner, then back to Ernakulam.

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Kayak through Periyar

Being Sunday, I went for a Kayaking journey through the Periyar river, which is surrounded by the lush greenery of Thattekad Bird Sanctuary.

I drove from Kochi to Kothamangalam and then turned to Thattekad road . After a few kilometers drive,  turned  right to Chaarupara road and further drive was through a straight road till Inchathotty bus stop.

As per our itinerary,  our meeting point was at Inchathotty at 9 am. After reaching Inchathotty, I waited there for sometime for all the people in the group. There were few small shops selling tea, snacks and cold drinks.

The main attraction of this place is the hanging bridge which is considered as the longest suspension bridge in Kerala.

It was constructed as a walking bridge from Charupara of Keeripara Panchayat to Inchathotty of Kuttanpuzha Panchayat. Kerala Electrical and Allied Engineering Company Ltd completed the design and construction of the bridge. The view of river and the coast area from the bridge is breathtaking.

Since I had an experience of kayaking in Dharmadam island , I opted for a single kayak. The instructor gave the instructions and we set to go.

The 3 hour kayaking trip starts near to the hanging bridge. The sun was bright. One of the best part of kayaking in Periyar is that it gives you an experience of getting close to nature.

Navigating through dense tropical jungle  is like making your way through libyrinth. As we made our way through the scenery, I felt like in an english movie scene.

Except with the initial nervousness, the three hour journey was fantastic.

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Beach Camping and Kayaking at Dharmadam,Kerala

After waiting for  long, the time finally came for a kayaking trip to Dharmadam. Dharmadam is a small town  in Thalassery of Kannur district, in the Indian State of Kerala. Going to Dharmadam is easy by train and bus. One fine Saturday morning, I boarded Island Express from Ernakulam. It was fortunate that I reached the station much early to take ticket. Since it was a long weekend due to Vishu festival, there was an unbelievable rush at the ticket counter.  

Reached Thalassery at around 1 pm. My friend already informed about Hotel Paris for lunch. The summer was hot. I walked about 1.7 kms and was very pleased to find  the hotel, bustling with helpful-looking staff. Had a fabulous Non Veg lunch

Then took bus and got down at bridge stop. Took an auto to our camp which was near to the Dharmodam beach park.  It was around 2:00 PM, when I reached the camp site. It had five separate tents beautifully arranged and could accomodate 5 persons each in a tent.  The tent  there was a pleasant surprise - I guess you could call  it a junior luxury room.

It was such a beautiful location facing the sea. I strolled around on the beach absorbing the surroundings. I could see couples stroll through the beach holding hands and giving each other hugs and kisses.

A different attraction on every corner- from beautifuly arranged tents,  hammock under palms etc. Resting in hammock with sweet soud of waves, the view of the beach and cool breeze under the shade of palms make it a perfect relaxing place.

Our first activity in our chart was kayaking around Dharmodom Island. Dharmadam Island is located 100 meters away from the main land of Dharmadam. It is surrounded by the Anjarakandy river on three sides and the Arabian sea on the fourth side.

It was my first time so I was a bit excited as well as scared. We were given few minutes lesson by the guide. After a little bit of practice, my hands had become used to the grip of the paddle and the strokes had begun to come naturally.  

Since it was my first time, we shared a double-seat kayak. I sat in the back seat. Person sitting in the back seat have the control of the Kayak. We had moved against the tides. We took a round through  the Dharmadam Island and witnessed the beautiful view of the sunset.

We  reached back after sunset. After a long kayaking trip, our first priority was tea and snacks.

After dinner we walked through the beach. There were some surprise activities.  Vishu festival was coming after one day. We celeberated Vishu in the beach with fire crackers.

Day 2

Nothing can beat a morning  walk through the beach with an amazing sunrise. Few minutes after my casual walk began, I arrived near to the Dharmadom Island, where rocks projected in different structure. That was an ultimate morning stroll - the sun coming near you,  the alternate sound of quite then crashing waves, a good ocean smell.  A moment later, while standing around rocky beach, a strong smell of kelp and seaweed completed the sea side aromas.

I saw locals catching fishes. I stopped sometime , inhaling the smell of dead fish. Few steps further, the sight of a cemetery which was constructed for film shooting,caught my attention. After a leisurely breakfast,  we had a kayaking trip to explore the forest of mangroves around Anjarakandy river.

After 2 hrs of joy ride , we reached back to the camp around 10 am. It was low tide. We walked to Dharmadam Island through sea. We sat there for some time. You can spot corals everywhere.

It was around 1 pm. when we were back to the camp site. After having a yummy lunch we packed. Then on to Thalassery, then back to Kochi with a promise to come back again.

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A Day with Artisans at Sargalaya Arts and Craft Village

This time my travel is to Sargalaya Arts and Craft Village in Iringal which is near to the coastal town of Vadakara. I reached Kozhikode late night for next day's program and took rest in a Hotel. Next morning,  after having breakfast, boarded  a private bus from Kozhikode new bus stand at around 8.30 am. I stared out of the window and tried to make sense of the cityscape. 

Reached Oil Mill stop, Iringal at around 9.30 am. I was informed to wait at the bus stop. I walked around the place to find a tea shop and found Richus Thattukada and had a tea. When all members in the group arrived, we took  an auto and headed to Sargalaya craft village. We, a gang of 20, were anxious to meet the people who have devoted their lives to art or are living a life of art.

The session started at around 11.15 am. We sat on the benches facing Parakulam. Mr. Rajesh Sir and Mr.Sivadas Sir briefed us about the craft village. 

Spread across 20 acres of land, Sargalaya Craft village is developed and managing by  Ooralangal  labour coorperative society.  Started in 2011, it is the first craft village and it gives importance to both  tourism and craft. It has already invested 27 crores in two phases and attracts more than 4 lac visitors per year. It consists of 27 huts for craft making and has one craft training acadamy.  Around 100 craftsmen are associated with this place.

We started from the hut where clay models by  Mr.A.K.Arun were displayed. The models  that he made were simply beautiful. If you want to see the craftmen at work, this is a great place to visit.

Then we visited huts for  bamboo products, flowers made up of natural products etc. Another hut showcases Kayar products, then a Naithu shala which produces 3 meter cloth  a day. We were simply mesmerised seeing these works. 

Naithu Sala

The Craft village is really beautiful. Every year, Sargalaya  hosts 19 days handicraft exhibition. There is one aqua section also. We had lunch from the canteen in the village.

It has one lake  and is known as parakulam and has boating facility. Boating was interesting and 4 persons can use pedal boats at a time.

Then we headed to Kunjalimarakkar  Museum which is around  2km from the craft village. Our guide explained about the history of Museum.

The Kunjali Marakkar Museum is the old house of Kunjali Marakkar,  the naval chief of the Zamorin of Calicut. Marakkar was the honored title bestowed upon the family of valorous fighters, who were the admirals of the Zamorin's fleet. Kunjali Marakkar fought valiantly against the Portuguese army and the Portuguese were able to capture him only through treachery. After his defeat, he was imprisoned and later, beheaded in Goa.

Some of the prominent displays include the sword used by Kunjali Marakkar, cannon balls and some other war relics belonging to the period of the Zamorins.

It was already 5 PM  and we decided to bid goodbye till we meet in another place. 

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