A walk through the Summer Palace of Tipu Sultan to the Bangalore Fort

Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace

Bangalore, popularly known as ' The Garden City' has numerous gems to visit in a short time. Erstwhile the city has witnessed centuries of invasions and dynasties.

I was trying to remember the history of  Bangalore city. The Bengaluru city was founded by Kempegouda, a feudatory of the Vijayanagar empire,  in 1537 AD. The city was leased to the Mysore King Chikkadevaraya by the Mughals, in 1969 AD. He expanded the existing fort to the South and built the Sri Venkararamana temple within its boundaries.

Hyder Ali secured Bengaluru as Jagar in 1758, further expanded, and strengthened it by 1761 AD.  Lord Cornwalls captured the fortified city in 1791 AD, but handed it back to Tipu Sultan a year later as per the Srirangapattana Treaty.

I began  my walk from Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace. The Palace is an example of Indo-Islamic architecture and was the summer retreat of Tipu Sultan. History says that  Hyder Ali commenced the construction within the walls of the Bangalore Fort, and it was completed by Tipu Sultan in 1791.

Entry fee is Rs. 5/- only. The view from the gate is fantastic. As you cross the well maintained garden, you will reach  a two story building  built with wood except for the walls. The front of the palace has huge wooden pillar with base of stones.  The palace has been beautifully painted in various floral motifs and different colors.  There are four staricases that  lead to upper chambers which was used as the durbar by the Sultan to receive his specal guests.

Front view of  Tipu Sultan's Palace

Today the Archaeological Survey of India maintains the palace. The Palace has preserved the historical artifacts with care. The rooms in the ground floor have been converted into a small museum showcasing various achievements of Tipu Sultan and his administration. There are newly done portraits of the people and places of that time. Tipu Sultan's clothes and his crown are present in silver and gold pedestals. The silver vessels given by a General to Hyder Ali is also displayed. 

I finished my visit to Tipu Sultan's Palace and  headed to Bangalore Fort. Bangalore Fort is at a  walkable distance from Tipu Sultan's Palace. Across the road is is the newly constructed Namma  Metro. Bangalore Fort is at a stone's throw from this place.  I walked past by the city bus stand, city market, tiny shops and a small temple.

Third gate of the Bangalore Fort

The current entrance has some beautiful stone motifs and designs. The highlight of the Fort is the open lawn inside.   The original fort was oval in plan, with round bastions and huge gateways at important places,  Delhi Gate and Yelahanka Gate in the North, Ulsur Gate in the East, Kanakanahalli Gate and Mysore Gate in the South and Kengeri Gate in the West. A dry moat around the Fort and a small Genesha temple inside the fort  are among few remnants of the Fort.

An old Lord Ganesha Temple inside the Fort

The granite walls with beautiful stucco carvings, a tablet embedded on the wall which indicates that this was where Lord Cornwallis breached the fort when he took possession of it and a dreary dark room where Captain David Baird and other Englishmen was imprisoned by Tipu Sultan for around 5 years,  draws tourists to indulge in the rich history of the Fort.

Eventhough the visiting area in the Fort is quite small, the story behind the Fort and its beauty will tempt you to spend  atleast an hour inside the Fort.

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A journey through Munroe Thuruth (Munroe Island), Kerala

One fine Sunday, before the crack of dawn, I boarded my train from Ernakulam Station  to Munroe. Reached Munroe at around 8 am. Only few trains especially passenger trains and Memu trains have stop in this station. Since our meeting point was at the station premises at around 9 am, I waited there for an hour. There were less people around the station. Having nothing to do, I strolled around the station for sometime and met one of my co-travellers in a coffee shop.

A little about Munroe. Munroe Thuruth is a cluster of eight islands, interconnected by narrow canals , located in the middle of the Ashtamudi Lake and the Kallada river. The island community is named after Colonel John Monroe, a British officer who took the initiative to construct canals in the region and link the backwaters.

We then took an auto and moved to a homestay where our boat was parked.  I sat on a chair near to the river side. The water was crystal clear, the air was chill and crisp.  There was a Shikara boat parked near  me.

I was silently enjoying the beauty of the scenery.  A picturesque river, sheltered by trees that dipped their boughs into the murmuring waters and a boat resting on the water. An absolute treat for the eyes.

The best way to reach Munrou islands is by riding a boat. Soon we started our ride  in three groups. There are a few roads and bridges connecting some villages but most of Munroe is still navigable only by boat. The views on the sides are houses, fish farms etc.

Row and small boats, prey ducklings and rare species of birds are common here. As we moved ahead, we came across a series of canals connected by small bridges where sometimes we had to bend our head  at some places as the boat passed under these bridges.

Fisheries are an important source of income for the people. You will find many Karimeen (Pearl spot fish) kettu throughout the journey. Small roads in the middle of the lake is a common sight in the island. All around, you can see coconut palms.

A little way off where the canals end, the boat soon enters the Ashtamudi Lake. In the middle of the lake is a mangrove forest which is shaped naturally. Such tremendously beautiful formation of nature is something to cherish. All we could do is relax, look, and breathe in the perfumed air. We photographed by stopping our boat  at the centre of that structure, which I had only seen in social media till date. We spent a  long time in that beautiful spot.

We returned our ride from this point. It was already  2 pm. when we finished our boating. Our lunch was ready, which was served in plantain leaf. Everything served was hot and fresh and I really enjoyed fish recipes.

Soon we bid goodbye to each other and started our return journey. We took an auto till ferry to catch Jankar. A ferry to the island is normally crowded.  After crossing the river, we got our bus to Kollam.

It is sad to hear that these eight islands are sinking everyday because of the effects of climate change. It is believed that the island would be entirely submerged by the year 2050.

It was a great weekend travel by enjoying village life, food and boating through canals and lake.

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Culture Trail: The Dance of Gods

After the day's sight seeing at Kannur,  we went straight to our place of residence. A house in the countryside which is the home of our friend where his grandmother alone stays. Soon we were all ready to refresh. The ladies in our group  dressed in traditional Kerala Saree and the men dressed up in traditional shirt and Mundu .  20 of us set out to see the Theyyam performance at the Sri Dharmadaiva Temple at Nadakkal Tharavadu in Pazhayangadi, in the Indian state of Kerala. So after a 15 minutes journey, we arrived at the Kavu.

Theyyam means “ GOD” in Malayalam Language, and is practised in Kolathunadu (Kannur and Kasargod districts)  in Northern Kerala. When it comes to Kozhikode, it is known as 'Thira'.  I learnt from a conversation with a local expert that a similar custom prevailed in the Tulu Nadu region of neighbouring Karnataka and there are some information that these art forms  originated from Kudagu.

When we reached, Vellattam by different form of Theyyams had already  started. The compound was packed with many people. There were few chairs which were occupied by first comers. We could hear the 'thottam paattu' which describes the origin of the theyyam and related things in a song format. There was Chendas along with 'thottam paattu'  during Theyyam dancing. I spent sometime watching  Theyyam Chamayam.

The fire was blazing in the middle  of the compound. Theyyam was performing around the fire with certain ritualistic and divine movements. It is said that this divine dance is to propitiate Gods, Goddess , forefathers, local heroes and heroine’s accompanied by rituals and other devotional hymns with Chenda. Invoking god or goddess in his body, the Theyyam dances through the compound.  It is a custom that each theyyam will come to the audience to bless them and in turn people will give Dhakshina.

We were going to watch Vellattam by various Theyyams -  Thaiparadevatha, Kandanar Kelan, Vayanat Kulavan, Vishnumurthy and Kudiveeran. After that Purappadu by Sreebhootham, Kandanar Kelan, Vayanat Kulavan, Kundor Chamundi, Kurathi, Vishnumurthy, Thaiparadevatha and Gulikan.

A little about Kudiveeran Theyyam : The story goes like this. Kudiveeran  lived by invoking  fear for the enemy and doing  good towards his people. The King of Heavan, who heard the life of Kudiveeran sent Yaman to earth to take Kudiveeran. The Warrior had surrendered to destiny and had disappeared at Thrinunelly and thus the warrior became Kudiveern Theyam.

It is believed that Vayanat Kulavan Theyyam, an old age goddess Theyyam will appear whenever we pray. The dance steps of this goddess are slow and steady.

We watch slaughter of chicken as part of the rituals. What  attracted  me is that people were telling their stories, good or bad, that happend in their homes to  the Theyyam  just  as we normally communicate to God. 

Then it was turn for Sree Bhootham Theyyam, and it was different from other Theyyams. There was only conversation by the Theyyam.

Annadhanam ( a sacred tradition of offering food ) was arranged in the Kaavu. Food was hot and fresh and all of us had dinner. They also served hot black cofee occaasionally during the night. It was already 5 am and by that time a big bonfire was prepared at the middle of the compound. All of us were anxiously waiting for  the performance of Kandanar Kelan Theyyam.

It is better to know the story of  Kandanar Kelan before in order to enjoy his performance. A person called Kelan came to a hilly area in search of his livelihood through farming. One day he set fire to the area. But unfortunately, the fire spread  and Kelan was in the midst of the fire. To save himself Kelan climbed a tree. There was a snake on the tree. Kelan and snake fell into the burning fire and both died.

Vayanatt kulavan on his rutine hunting in the area saw the burnt body of  Kelan and touched his body with his bow. Kelan got his life back immediately. Kelan who got a rebirth befriended Vayanatt Kulavan. As Kelan was found in the forest fire, he was called Kandanar Kelan. Thus Kandanar Kelan also become divine and was being performed as Theyyam.

Soon, Kandanar Kelan ran into the compound in all his glory. I quitly sat down at a distance, positioned my camera towards the fire. The Theyyam  performs the fire to show the exit from the forest fire. It was a sight to behold.

The theyyam ran and jumped over the fire. Two helpers on either side supported him as he ran swiftly over the blaze. He was jumping and running over it again and again. One can only see Kandanar Kelan breathlessly as he ran  through the fire without any security.

It was absolutely a visual treat. None of us even knew it was morning. At around 6 am,  we returned back to our residence for sleep. The Van was quiet on the drive back home. Probably, all of us were reliving the stunning performance of Kandanar Kelan !!!

DAY 2

It was around 11 am, we were back again to the Kavu. The compound was filled with multiple Theyyams. As in the night, people were packed in the place. I could see devotees communicating with the Theyyam and in turn Theyyam advises the devotees and offer blessings.

Thaiparadevatha Theyyam is actually Badrakali Devi and this Theyyam is known in different names particularly the name of the village where the theyyam is performed.  Thaiparadevatha Theyyam is also called by Amma, Achi, Pothi, Thampuratti etc

I took blessings from Kundor Chamundi Theyyam and  Kurathi Theyyam.

It was already 2 pm and after lunch, we were ready to leave. By that time Gulikan Theyyam was running around the compound.

Gulikan is a local form of the Hindu God of death, called Yama. The intricate and fascinating dance steps of Gulikan stands apart from that of the other Theyyams. It is said that there are eight kind of Gulikan Theyyams.

According to legend, to save the life of Markandeya, Lord Siva opened his third eye and put Yama into ashes. After that there was no death on earth. Deva's complained to Lord Siva. To solve the problem, Lord Siva pressed  his left thump finger on the ground and his finger splitted and Gulikan was born.

When I sat on the bench at Pazhayangadi railway station waiting for the train, scenes from the trip raced through my mind.  I  boarded the train with a lot of great memories in my head. I could smell that hash for days.

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A Road Trip through Kannur

St.Angelo Fort

I reached Kozhikode, slept very well and left for Kannur the next morning for my two days trip to Kannur, in the Indian state of  Kerala. It was a memmorable train journey from Kozhikode to Kannur because I met a new friend and  most of the topics in our conversation  was about my journey, Theyyam performance and sight seeing spots in Kannur. I was very much excited about Theyyam. We reached Kannur railway station and said good bye. Had my breakfast from  the railway station restuarant. By that time, all group members assembled at the station premises. Our conveyance was ready and we, a gang of 20 started our journey , singing and dancing in the Traveller.

We moved to St.Angelo Fort which was the day's first destination. We were lucky to meet Gokulan Sir, who is working in the Kerala Police and  deputed to the Fort for the past 13 years. He was very fluent in English and he explained about the Fort.  According to history, St Angelo Fort is  a composite feature of the Portugese, Dutch and the English architecture right from the early 16th century A.D.  It was sold to the Arrakal Raja in 1772 by the Dutch. The British finally seized it in 1790 and thereafter it was their base in the Malabar till 1947.

The fort is surrounded by sea on three sides while a dry moat runs from a land side of the fort on one side.  The main gate is towards the land.  We visited chapels, house of mercy prison, offices and other amneties which were built by the Portugese.  Presently,  the canons are fixed in the merions and bastions on the fort wall, pointing towards the sea.

St.Angelo Fort

Our next stop was  Arakkal Museum at Ayikkara which is located  3-4 km from the city of Kannur. Arakkal is the only Muslim dynasty of Kerala.  Now it is under the Department of Archeology.

The heritage artifacts belonging to the Arakkal Dynasty are in the museum. As we entered the museum, we could see articles from the Quran, important documents and paintings written during the British Dutch period, antiquities of various kinds, carved furniture, and crystal plates. The rest of the Arakkal history, the Durbar Hall and stick with the lion's head are still preserved here.

Arakkal Museum

It was already 2 pm and we had famous Thelassery Biriyani from a restuarant, on our way to V-Pra Kaayal Floating Park.  After lunch, we hit the road.  The road was narrow but good .

Entry fee to the park  is Rs.10/- only. The park is constructed on top of Vayalapra Kaayal.  We had spicy buttermilk from the  shop  near the entrance.  Then we started our walk on the path built in wood on top of the river. I could see food courts selling different kinds of foods, shops selling anticrafts etc on the side of the path.

V-Pra Kaayal Floating Park

It is packed with various activities like pedal boating, kayaking, group boating, party boat and kids water ride.  The end of the bridge have everything, we got from a modern mall. Play zone ? Juice shop?  Cool bar? Ice cream shop? Vedio game? They all are here.

Our next destination in the chart was Kerala Folklore Acadamy Museum, but it was closed that day. We had  great expectations to know about theyyams  prior to witnessing  its performance in the whole night.

Then we moved to Madayipara, which  was our last sight seeing spot in the chart. The real fun started as the road starts to kink on its way uphill.

Madayipara, which is a hillock, spread across an area of 700 acres, with  picturesque landscapes has  the remains of an ancient fort called the Madayi Fort built by the Vallabha King of the Kolothu dynasty, now in ruins including  a Jew pond.

Madayipara

According to legends, the Greeks, the Arabs and the Jews  setup camp near Madayipara long back. Once, it was the administrative hub for the kings of Ezhimala. Tipu Sultan is said to have signed some treaties here with the British.

It is said that during the Onam season the whole hillock is covered in a carpet of blue flowers. Since we visited the place in summer, the entire landscape was yellow in color with long blades of grass and red flowers. The exquisite beauty of the biodiversity of Madayipara is that it keeps on changing its face every season.

We quitly sat down at the edge of the hill. The sun was about to set. The sky turns in a blaze of orange and red shade as the  sun sets behind the hills.

Sunset at Madayipara

It was a memmorable place for me : lovely sunset, photography, some fun filled group activities with more than a place to sightsee and explore.

There was something left in the days program  that was much awaited-  Theyyam performance in the  night..

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