Culture Trail: The Dance of Gods

After the day's sight seeing at Kannur,  we went straight to our place of residence. A house in the countryside which is the home of our friend where his grandmother alone stays. Soon we were all ready to refresh. The ladies in our group  dressed in traditional Kerala Saree and the men dressed up in traditional shirt and Mundu .  20 of us set out to see the Theyyam performance at the Sri Dharmadaiva Temple at Nadakkal Tharavadu in Pazhayangadi, in the Indian state of Kerala. So after a 15 minutes journey, we arrived at the Kavu.

Theyyam means “ GOD” in Malayalam Language, and is practised in Kolathunadu (Kannur and Kasargod districts)  in Northern Kerala. When it comes to Kozhikode, it is known as 'Thira'.  I learnt from a conversation with a local expert that a similar custom prevailed in the Tulu Nadu region of neighbouring Karnataka and there are some information that these art forms  originated from Kudagu.

When we reached, Vellattam by different form of Theyyams had already  started. The compound was packed with many people. There were few chairs which were occupied by first comers. We could hear the 'thottam paattu' which describes the origin of the theyyam and related things in a song format. There was Chendas along with 'thottam paattu'  during Theyyam dancing. I spent sometime watching  Theyyam Chamayam.

The fire was blazing in the middle  of the compound. Theyyam was performing around the fire with certain ritualistic and divine movements. It is said that this divine dance is to propitiate Gods, Goddess , forefathers, local heroes and heroine’s accompanied by rituals and other devotional hymns with Chenda. Invoking god or goddess in his body, the Theyyam dances through the compound.  It is a custom that each theyyam will come to the audience to bless them and in turn people will give Dhakshina.

We were going to watch Vellattam by various Theyyams -  Thaiparadevatha, Kandanar Kelan, Vayanat Kulavan, Vishnumurthy and Kudiveeran. After that Purappadu by Sreebhootham, Kandanar Kelan, Vayanat Kulavan, Kundor Chamundi, Kurathi, Vishnumurthy, Thaiparadevatha and Gulikan.

A little about Kudiveeran Theyyam : The story goes like this. Kudiveeran  lived by invoking  fear for the enemy and doing  good towards his people. The King of Heavan, who heard the life of Kudiveeran sent Yaman to earth to take Kudiveeran. The Warrior had surrendered to destiny and had disappeared at Thrinunelly and thus the warrior became Kudiveern Theyam.

It is believed that Vayanat Kulavan Theyyam, an old age goddess Theyyam will appear whenever we pray. The dance steps of this goddess are slow and steady.

We watch slaughter of chicken as part of the rituals. What  attracted  me is that people were telling their stories, good or bad, that happend in their homes to  the Theyyam  just  as we normally communicate to God. 

Then it was turn for Sree Bhootham Theyyam, and it was different from other Theyyams. There was only conversation by the Theyyam.

Annadhanam ( a sacred tradition of offering food ) was arranged in the Kaavu. Food was hot and fresh and all of us had dinner. They also served hot black cofee occaasionally during the night. It was already 5 am and by that time a big bonfire was prepared at the middle of the compound. All of us were anxiously waiting for  the performance of Kandanar Kelan Theyyam.

It is better to know the story of  Kandanar Kelan before in order to enjoy his performance. A person called Kelan came to a hilly area in search of his livelihood through farming. One day he set fire to the area. But unfortunately, the fire spread  and Kelan was in the midst of the fire. To save himself Kelan climbed a tree. There was a snake on the tree. Kelan and snake fell into the burning fire and both died.

Vayanatt kulavan on his rutine hunting in the area saw the burnt body of  Kelan and touched his body with his bow. Kelan got his life back immediately. Kelan who got a rebirth befriended Vayanatt Kulavan. As Kelan was found in the forest fire, he was called Kandanar Kelan. Thus Kandanar Kelan also become divine and was being performed as Theyyam.

Soon, Kandanar Kelan ran into the compound in all his glory. I quitly sat down at a distance, positioned my camera towards the fire. The Theyyam  performs the fire to show the exit from the forest fire. It was a sight to behold.

The theyyam ran and jumped over the fire. Two helpers on either side supported him as he ran swiftly over the blaze. He was jumping and running over it again and again. One can only see Kandanar Kelan breathlessly as he ran  through the fire without any security.

It was absolutely a visual treat. None of us even knew it was morning. At around 6 am,  we returned back to our residence for sleep. The Van was quiet on the drive back home. Probably, all of us were reliving the stunning performance of Kandanar Kelan !!!

DAY 2

It was around 11 am, we were back again to the Kavu. The compound was filled with multiple Theyyams. As in the night, people were packed in the place. I could see devotees communicating with the Theyyam and in turn Theyyam advises the devotees and offer blessings.

Thaiparadevatha Theyyam is actually Badrakali Devi and this Theyyam is known in different names particularly the name of the village where the theyyam is performed.  Thaiparadevatha Theyyam is also called by Amma, Achi, Pothi, Thampuratti etc

I took blessings from Kundor Chamundi Theyyam and  Kurathi Theyyam.

It was already 2 pm and after lunch, we were ready to leave. By that time Gulikan Theyyam was running around the compound.

Gulikan is a local form of the Hindu God of death, called Yama. The intricate and fascinating dance steps of Gulikan stands apart from that of the other Theyyams. It is said that there are eight kind of Gulikan Theyyams.

According to legend, to save the life of Markandeya, Lord Siva opened his third eye and put Yama into ashes. After that there was no death on earth. Deva's complained to Lord Siva. To solve the problem, Lord Siva pressed  his left thump finger on the ground and his finger splitted and Gulikan was born.

When I sat on the bench at Pazhayangadi railway station waiting for the train, scenes from the trip raced through my mind.  I  boarded the train with a lot of great memories in my head. I could smell that hash for days.