Road trip : From Kochi to Thekkady & Vagamon

It was a long weekend due to Dussehra and Gandhi Jayanti and I was planning  a family trip to some place in North India which I have not  visited so far.  But a different plan awaited me and  I found myself enjoying a road trip to Thekkady with my wife. And we drove from Kochi on the State and National Highway, past hills, valleys, tea estates, and water falls.

Thekkady, situated near Kerala - Tamil Nadu border, in the Indian state of Kerala is  popular for the Periyar Tiger Reserve and spice plantations.

DAY 1

The journey began from our home in Kochi to Thekkady. Started our drive early in the morning when the roads are empty. As we were  driving long distance, we stored plenty of water and snacks.

Our route was Kochi - Thripoonithura - Pala - Mundakayam - Kuttikanam - Peerumedu  -  Vandiperiyar - Thekkady

When you start driving, you will realize that it is not the destination that is important but the journey. From Pala the route was excellent through NH 183 and after Mundakayam the ghat road started. The drive from  Mundakayam takes you through the lush green countryside, with mountains and valleys lining the narrow, single-lane highway.

Thekkady is one of the most popular tourist spots. However, most people don't realise that on the way up to Thekkady there are few hidden gems for the tourists.

PANCHALIMEDU TOURIST DESTINATION

Take deviation from NH183 at Murinjapuzha junction to reach Panchalimedu. The road is narrow and full of curves.  Once you reach the place, you can see small hills with crosses placed by missionaries all over. You can easily climb the hills and from the top you can admire the beauty of the valley.

Admired the breath taking view of the valley from the cliff as the grey blue monsoon clouds set in and enjoyed the cool, gentle breeze. The clouds were gracious enough to let the sun beams partially illuminate a patch of the hills in the valley.

It is believed that  the Pancha Pandavas spent their years of exile in the forests of Panchalimedu and Draupadi - wife of Pandava's made a temple of Goddess Durga.

The Panchalikulam (the pond of Panchali), where Panchali is believed to have taken a bath is one of the major attractions of this location.

Panchalikulam, Panchalimedu

From Panchalimedu, we drove through the ghat road by enjoying lush green surroundings.

VALANJANKANAM WATERFALLS

There is an attractive water fall known as Valanjaganam water falls placed  between Panchalimedu and Vandiperiyar, beside NH 183.

Valanjaganam water falls

PARUNTHUMPARA

Drive up the hill, and turn right from Kallar junction, you  will reach Parunthumpara after 3 kms ride. At Parunthumpara, which is almost on a cliff, the scene cheers up.

Parunthumpara view point

The main attractions of Parunthumpara are Suicide Point and 'Tagore Head' which is named after the great Indian Poet  Sri Rabindranath Tagore.

Tagore head at Parunthumpara

It is an exhilarating feeling standing there, taking in the view of the vast valley and Sabarimala forests painted in myriad shades of blue and green.

VANDIPERIYAR

The last leg of this journey towards Thekkady was through Vandiperiyar with sprawling tea-estates. You can watch lots of local tea factories on the way. The Periyar River flows through this town enriching the plantations.

KUMILY - THEKKADY

Thekkady serves as the entry point to the renowned Periyar Wildlife Reserve which is 4 kms from Kumily.  Kumily is a small city as such but serves the basic requirements of stay. There are good restaurants, home stays and  hotels to cater to all your needs.

We had booked our stay in a hotel in Thekkady Junction. After lunch and rest for some time in our hotel, we walk down to the streets of Kumily.  Apart from spices, you will also get homemade chocolates and condiments.

DAY 2

BOATING THROUGH PERIYAR LAKE

Boating through Periyar lake is the most popular activity you can enjoy in Thekkady.  I reached the Tourism Police Information Centre  at around 5.45 am. Entry pass is Rs.53 per person plus Rs.38 if you are carrying a still camera. Then a 4 km ride in the bus from the ticket counter to the boating centre. You need to be in the  queue at the boating centre to get the ticket for boating. Boating fee is Rs.225 per head and a maximum of 340 persons can travel in one slot.

Boating Time : 07.30, 09.30, 11.15, 13.45 and 15.30 hrs.

Boating centre, Periyar Tiger Reserve

There are a lot of guided tours which are organized from this place into the wildlife reserve. You can choose Nature walk, jungle camp or Bamboo Rafting. You can also have guided spice tours where one gets to see spices like pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg etc.

We left Thekkady before noon. Instead of going back through the same route, we decided to cover Vagamon in this trip.

Our route was Thekkady - VandiPeriyar - Peermade - Elappara - Vagamon

VAGAMON

The drive through the tea estates started from Elappara. Elappara literally means “Cardamom rock”, named  after the spice grown here.  It was an amazing drive through zig zag roller coaster ride and we were treated to uninterrupted views of verdant green tea gardens on both sides.

PARAGLINDING VIEW POINT

You can visit the view point by taking entry ticket. Vehicles will go upto only 500 meters away from the view point. You need to climb the hill to get the view of Vagamon meadows.

Paragliding view point, Vagamon

We stopped at many tourist spots like Vagamon Orchidarium & Floriculture Project by KFDC, Pine valley and  Barren Hills ( Motta Kunnu in Malayalam language).

After having lunch on the way, we were back on the road. From Vagamon we drove to Kochi through Moolamattom- Thodupuzha route. The road to Moolamattom  passed through steep and curved hill slopes. Traveling by the hill road in this section is an exhilarating experience with deep valleys and magnificent views all around. It is little bit dangerous with steep curves  and you need to make sure that you vehicle is in perfect condition before driving through this route.

ELAPALLY WATER FALLS

The Elappally Falls is situated before reaching Moolamattom. It  originates in the upper reaches of the Western Ghats.

Elapally water falls

From Moolamatton the road was excellent till Thodupuzha. And I stopped my car for a tea which was enough for me to recharge and take a further drive to Kochi which marked the last leg of this road trip. The joy of riding your own car through vast green expanses is unmatched.

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Mankayam-Ponmudi Trek, Kerala

At 8.00 a.m, our party of 19 boarded the Van from Thiruvananthapuram. After breakfast at Palode, we reached Mankayam at around 11 a.m. The journey from Thiruvananthapuram to Mankayam took around 3 hours.

Mankayam is situated near Palode in Nedumangad Taluk, Thiruvananthapuram district, in the Indian state of Kerala. Mankayam ecotourism, managed by the State Forest Department  conducts various activities for the visitors. Visitors can go to nearby picturesque spots and can also go for trekking. You can choose a half day or a full day trek .

Mankayam is a reserved place, with houses and a couple of shops. Not much happens here and this is precisely its charm. Our accommodation was arranged in Ponmudi Valley Resort. The resort where we stayed is a mix of modern and ancient huts. It has all basic facilities like A/c room, kitchen, open dining hall etc. The highlight of the resort was the Mankayam river  flowing just  beside .

And I walked around the resort watching the beautiful lawns and the garden. Rubber and coconut trees sentry in to the courtyard .

MANKAYAM TO AYAMPARA - AYIRAVALLIPARA TREK

Our first activity in the chart was trek to Ayampara. Dropped our luggage inside the room and carried our packed lunch and valuables in a small bag. Mankayam check post was the starting point of the trek. First few minutes trek was through plantations. The numerous farms flourished with acacia trees. There were around 15 streams to cross on this route.

And again a vast area of acacia tress. The path is less demanding with a usually chilled climate.

Spotted one hidden waterfall in the forest.   I could see the gushing water falling powerfully a few feet away from me.

There were small and large waterfalls. These waterfalls are perfect for nature lovers.  We took some aerial pictures of the breath-taking waterfalls while walking through the  height.

It was around 1 pm when we reached  a big waterfall. A less visited place, the waterfalls are surrounded by impressive greenery and rocks. The pathways are slippery but the view is  worth the risk. We bathed in the cold waters, had our packed lunch, relaxed for sometime by watching and listening to the crystal clear water falling from the top.

As there were numerous streams to cross, I took the advantage of getting refreshed by walking through the flowing water, enough to get recharged for sometime.

Continued our trek to a view point. In many place trek path was filled with flowing water and we walked through the slippery patches.

The forest area is rich in flora and fauna and various medicinal plants. I was lucky enough to spot and photograph a spider in nature green background.

The forest area is home to elephants and an elephant family just passed through a distance. So, we changed our route to Ayiravallipara view point. Soon we reached the view point that offered a breathtaking view of the surroundings - valleys and mountains.

It was around 5 p.m, we reached back to the resort. Strolling through the village in the evening, watching village life, beautiful surroundings, tasting black tea from a small tea stall and a bath in the Mankayam river made me feel relaxed. It was late evening by the time we came back to the resort, had group discussions and dinner .

DAY 2

BRAEMORE TO PONMUDI TREK

It rained all through the night and into the morning. After having breakfast, we vacated the resort. Put our luggage and packed lunch in the Van and we travelled to Braemore estate. Spread around 900 acres of tea, rubber, coffee and spices, Braemore estate is a privately maintained estate, which is just 8 kms from Mankayam.

We started our trek from the entrance of the Braemore estate at around 9 a.m.  The initial stretch itself was a difficult climb through the plantations.  Climbing immediately after a heavy breakfast wasn’t a bright idea. Luckily after the initial climb, the terrain alternated between steep climb and a Jeep road. It was a rainy day which did not dampen our spirits.

We had a pit stop in an open area where some film shooting had taken place last week. We could see remains of  small bamboo huts, temple and a well.

After a few minutes trek through the plantation area, we entered  the deep forest area. I took in the fresh air and listened for a different kind of music. We were walking through the mud jeep road path. There were plenty of plain brown leeches and they sat inert on leaves angling for passers by.

We had  frequent halts to remove leeches from our body by applying salt. The trek path suddenly curves and opens up to an open area where we found one ancient temple dedicated to Lord Ayyappa. The front side of the temple is a rivulet. Since the day was the first of the Malayalam month, we saw a lot of people visiting the temple and they reached the temple by jeep.

Then the trek goes through the old horse route to Braemore estates,which was used  by the Britishers. Rain and mist completely washed away our chances to take any photograph. Although it was constantly drizzling, we still enjoyed ourselves.

Soon we reached the Ponmudi road where a board 'Varayadu Motta' welcomed us. 'Varayadu Motta' is a mountain where famous Nilgiri Tahr is visible. When you trek to this mountain from Ponmudi, you have to go down from this point till Braemore estate through the same route we trekked so far and change your direction to 'Varayadu Motta'.

We could see the Ponmudi road ahead of us and the tourists going to the top by car. Then 2 kms walk through the tar road to KTDC cafeteria.

It was around 2 pm we reached the Cafeteria that marked the end of the trek to Ponmudi. By that time our van had already reached with our packed lunch.

BISON VALLEY TREK

Our next activity was a trek to Bison valley. By 3 p.m  we started our trek by entering into the shola forest of the eastern slope. The surrounding place was filled by mist and we could not see anything. Enroute we passed through Sita theertham which is a small rivulet originating from the sides of a rock. We were walking through rocky patches and grass lands and we were on the constant lookout for Indian gaur, wild dogs, bear and elephants. But with no luck.

By around 5 p.m we reached back to the KTDC cafeteria that marked the end of our two days trek.
All of us were fed up with leech bites and we spent around half an hour  removing the leeches from our body. Had tea and snacks from the cafeteria and started our return journey to Thiruvananthapuram.

A day which actually witnessed a heavy rain in the State, with flooded roads and which infact saw most of them indoors during the day, had a few of us trekking through the forest and waterfalls, braving the rains and the heavy downpour ....However , it was fun all the way. Afterall, what is life without a little fun !!!

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The Magic of Nelliyampathy, Kerala

Located about 60 kms from Palakkad town, in the Indian state of Kerala, Nelliyampathy is swathed by robes of emarald. Its slopes are filled with tea and coffee plantations, waterfalls and trekking routes to meet all abilities. It is an ideal option for those who want to spend their weekend or vacation with family or trekking to western ghats enjoying the beautiful flora and fauna that Nelliyampathy offers.

I arrived at Palakkad at around 10 a.m for a perfect weekend. Had breakfast from Hotel Kapilavasthu. As one drives along the 60 km road towards Nelliyampathy, the traffic thins out and then disappears almost completely. The way side green paddy fields and some interesting houses and coconut trees provided nice backgrounds. Enroute we passed through the  Nenmara Bhagavathy Amman Temple. A popular festival held in this temple is known as the Nemmara Vallengi Vela Festival.

After  around 40 kms from Palakkad, we reached Pothundy Dam which is situated in the backdrop of Nelliyampathy Hills. The Dam serves the agricultural and drinking water needs of people around Chittur. This dam was the main shooting site for the Malayalam film 'Vinodayathra'.  One need to take entry ticket to enter the dam premises. After crossing the beautiful garden, you need to climb well laid steps to reach the top of the Dam.

The Dam and its reservoir area are  the main tourist spots. The surrounding peaks create a stunning backdrop for the celestial drama of ceaselessly moving clouds in dark grey color during monsoons.

Pothundy Dam

From Pothundy, the hill range of Nelliyampathy starts. The hill road is part of Nelliyampathy-Seetharkundu preserved natural site. There is a check post on the way  and one need to take permission to enter the area. There are a dozen hairpin bends  on the way to Nelliyampathy. Further on, were a series of waterfalls plunging into the road.

 
There are few view points on the way. You will get view of Pothundy dam and premises from these points, if it is not misty . As we were on high altitude, the clouds were on the road and this is an experience which I love - walking through the clouds.

When we were close to Nelliyampathy,  plantations, orange farms and spice gardens could be seen all around. Spread around 600 acres, majority of the  plantations here are owned by Poabs-India. You can watch the orange and vegetable farms run by the Kerala Government.

Nelliampathy is small town with all basic amenities such as shops, hotels etc. At around 12.30, we reached Pulayampara where our accommodation was arranged. It was beside the Mount Carmel Church. It is  a dormitory type arrangement and can accommodate 50 persons with basic amenities. By that time, our lunch was ready. 

As I made  my way through the tea-carpeted hills of Nelliyampathy,  I found workers busy  plucking tea leaves.  This place resembles Ooty or Munnar. The neat tea-lined valleys and a walk through the plantations that shaped Nelliyampathy make for a tasteful break.

OFF-ROAD ACTIVITY

At around 5 pm, our jeep was ready for an off-road journey to the reserved forest area.  For this a minimum of a 4x4 wheel drive- the good old Mahindra jeep is required. Enroute we had a pit stop at Greenland Farm Houses Resort for a tea. The ride was entirely breathtaking with steep climbs in jeep over the rocks.

The adjourning forests regions have wild elephants, giant squirrels and sambars. One can find elephants, and deers commonly in plantation and farm areas. Also spotted a Mlavu (deer) on the way.

Reached a beautiful view point from where you can enjoy the breathtaking view of Chulliyar dam, Meenkara Dam, Mulathara Dam and distant view of lightning of Pollachi town. The place was near to the Parambikulam Tiger Reserve.

Soon we started back to Nelliyampathy. As it had already darkened by the time, we reached the camp site at around 6 pm.

NIGHT SAFARI

It was around 8 p.m. The next activity in our chart was a night ride. A night drive with a guide is also a good way to spot animals.  This hill is a part of reserved wild life sanctuary and it has abundance of wild life to encounter with.

The ride goes through Nooradipalam. Nooradipalam is a small town area with all basic amneties like hotel, shops etc. On the way, we had dinner from a small hotel run by Sri. Ramachandran which is near to Padagiri.

I watched a sambar in the distance coolly going about its day. After a few meters away, I spotted a pig crossing the path. In a jungle, it is difficult to come across animals in front of you. We spotted a rabit and mlavu peering at our jeep through branches of trees. The jeep safari continued till Karappara. The ride ended by 12 pm.

I set my tent on the top of the building. It was raining throughout the night and heavy wind began to drum a beat on the tent. I was warming in my sleeping bag.

DAY 2

When I stepped out of my tent at dawn, I saw the magnificent tea estates stripped of cloud cover.

At around 9 am, we started our  journey for trekking. Reported to Nelliyampathy forest office and submitted our Id proof. Forest officer briefed about the trek and do's and don'ts during the trek. He urged us to comply with the instructions of the  two  forest officials who were  guiding us throughout our trial . The jeep passed through Manalaroo Tea Estate. On the way, I saw women move between rows of tea bushes picking leaves in both hands, tossing them into large baskets on their backs.

On the way, a small halt for breakfast from the hotel, the same place where we had dinner the previous night. Collected our packed lunch - Chapathi and Veg Curry.

And I walked around the place to identify birds and take in the stunning views. I could hear birdsongs all around. Monkeys were plenty enough. Spotted one peregrine falcon. We stood there some more time watching its movements. Finally, the falcon flew off, leaving behind our expectations.

THE TREK

Reached Mary Floor at around 10.30 a.m. This place has now been taken over by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation Ltd.

The forested trial begins from Mary Floor. We were trekking through the forest, when a heavy thunderstorm followed by heavy winds and rains completely washed away our chances to take any photograph. It is a bit steep to begin with, but eases off to take trekkers to a peak that provides panoramic views of the Nelliampathy hills and various check dams.

After 2 hours of trek, we reached the summit of Pothupara. On a clear day, we are told, we could see distant views. The area is a part of Parambikulam Tiger Reserve.  So it’s no surprise that the forests are full of wildlife and birds. The region is also home to elephants and wild dogs.

Dense clouds rolled in, reducing visibility. Then a gentle walk through the rock patch,  a long but gradual walk through the open meadows and then a descent through the thick forest. Returned  to Mary Floor at around 3 PM.

Leech is a common sight here and its bites are even more common. I got around 22 bites and it was bleeding continuously. The leeches are detached  from the body by applying salt. After relishing our packed lunch and resting  for some time, we travelled back to Padagiri where Ramachandran had prepared Kappa and black tea for us. Soon we started our return journey to Palakkad. It was raining throughout the journey.

You can also visit famous spots like Seetharkund, Kesav Para, Chandran Para and Katla Para and see the scenic beauty of the Valley.

A trip to this relatively lesserknown hill station is the perfect way to soothe big city nerves.

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Trekking Through the Peechi-Vazhani Wildlife Sanctuary, Kerala

At 5.30 a.m. we boarded the 17 seater Van from Kochi. When each one of us boarded from different locations, we exchanged quiet good-mornings and set off through the darkness.

The Peechi-Vazhani Wildlife Sanctuary,  spread about 125 sq km is located in Thrissur district, in the Indian state of Kerala. The sanctuary is part of the Palapilli-Nelliampathy forests and forms the Northern boundary of the Chimmini Sanctuary.

We reached Peechi at around 8'o clock and reported to the office of the Peechi-Vazhani Wildlife Santuary, managed by the  Kerala Forests & Wildlife Department. The compound has a dormitory which can accommodate upto 60 persons. They are basic but homely accommodations with a common area, kitchen and toilet. The Forest Department organizes nature camp and walks through the sanctuary with prior permission. I saw a group of school children camping there for 2 days as part of the nature camp. This package, with the objective  to create an awareness among children about nature and forests, includes  food and accommodation .

Had break fast and collected our packed lunch which is also part of the package. Trekker's have to carry their own lunch box to pack their lunch. Then we moved to Thondamucku by vehicle where the Forest Department has a check post. This is the starting point of the trek. The forest guide briefed us about the do's and dont's during the trek. We started the trek at around 9.30 a.m accompanied by four of the forest guides.

 
The initial trial was through muddy passageways until the forest finds you, surrounding you with drenched old trees for company.  This sanctuary is less frequented by trekker's and hence almost litter free and we walked through the forest chatting with each other.

Soon we reached  an open area for a halt. The weather was cool. Had a group photo and resumed our trek. The rest of the trek was through thick forest. The path was littered with elephant dung.

This Sanctuary has more than 50 different kinds of orchids, innumerable rare medicinal plants, teak, rosewood, and therefore a good spot for nature lovers. But it is not just the nature that makes this sanctuary one of Kerals's must-visit destinations. It has over 25 species of mammals and more than 100 species of birds and several species of snakes and lizards are also found here.

I was lucky enough to spot and photograph a giant flying squirrel. I also got a view of snake and butterflies. Snakes are plentiful. We spotted several butterflies with different colors.

The trek path suddenly curves and opens up to a reservoir surrounded by greenery. I found a comfortable spot to sit and relax.

Since the sanctuary is protected, even fallen trees cannot be cut though they may block the trail.

One Indian Gaur crossed our way. My heart went back to thumping mode in an instant. Instead of taking photography, we tried to save ourselves. We walked slowly, eager to spot mammals and reptiles, taking in the silence that is only punctuated by bird call and the stream gurgling by.

Reached the steepest section of the trek. The rocks were soapy but somehow all of us managed to cross this patch by helping each other.

We spotted an elephant with her child in the distance. She moved behind trees before we can get a shot. We moved fast by not taking further risk. Soon we reached Kuthira Kottukayam. It was a small stream. We had a halt here for rest and few of us filled our water bottles with natural water.

We resumed our trek and rest of the trek was beside the flowing water body. I sniffed the fresh air and listened for a different kind of music. The sound I was so eager to hear was the loud reverberation of thousands of gallons of water gushing down from the cliffs at Mampara Falls.

After 11 kms and 4.5 hours trek through the vibrant forest, we reached Mampara waterfalls at around 2 p.m.  Another four forest officials in uniform were awaiting to take us to the rest of the trek.

It is difficult to fathom such a gigantic waterfall emerging from such a gentle and innocuous body of water. This is not a tourist spot. The uneven stone formations divide the river into several channels, creating a stunning vista. You can bathe in clear water below the falls. The experience of standing beneath the gorgeous waterfall felt right the way humans are supposed to interact with nature.

Had our packed lunch and resumed our trek at around 3 PM. We were not going back through the same route we trekked so far. Further 4 kms trek will take you to Olakara. We made our way through a water body which is flowing from Mampara falls. Soon after crossing the river, our guide asked us to stay quit and cautious. The thick forest beside the river side is a prime elephant territory where elephants are supposed to visit for drinking water. We walked slowly,  revelling in the silence.

Reached Olakara at around 5' o clock which marked the end of the trek. But waited there for nearly 3 hrs for the Van to return after dropping the first batch of people who had reached Peechi Forest office by their own vehicle. The Van was quiet on the drive back home. Probably, all of them were reliving the day's memories !!! 

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In Photos: Nehru Trophy Boat Race

Every year on the second Saturday of August, Punnamada Lake in Alapuzha backwaters become a scene of snake boat races that hurtle towards Nehru trophy. Spending millions of rupees and a months long practice, oarsmen come to Punnamada Lake to exhibit their prowess, splashing through the waters.

Ever since Jawaharlal Nehru, then Indian Prime minister visited Punnamada Lake in 1952, the competition has been known for his name. In its 65th edition inauguration ceremony, all teams lined up for a mass drill and the Punnmada Lake was filled with boats and each team wore uniforms in yellow, blue, red, white etc. Light blue was the theme color for this year .

 
And they moved towards the starting point, cheered by hundreds of vociferous onlookers. The Chundans (snake boats) resembles a girl running over water with silver anklets ( kolusu) on her feet .

It was time for a vibrant show by the Indian Navy.

Dozens of houseboats filled with spectators marked the boundaries in the palm-fringed Punnamada Lake.  And the oarsmen plough through the water and thousands of people line the banks of Punnamada lake cheering them   and the silence of the lake is sliced by the slashing oars of the pacing boats. When they advance through the tracks, it appears like fast moving snakes.

The rowing of boats was accompanied by  Vanchipattu ( boat songs). The boat is rowed to the rhythms and beats of the songs sung by these singers. The course is 1.4 km ( 0.9 miles) on the Punnamada Lake.  Twenty chundans took part in the race in five heats carrying 20 to 100 rowers on board having a length of  about 100-120 ft.

A team of women in  traditional Kerala dress along with men who provided  rowing support, caught every eye !! . Other class of boats which competed were Chrulan, Iruttukuthy, Odi, Veppu and Vadakkanody.

It was getting dark. Onlooker's on the sides of lake waved their mobile phones with lights. After 3 rounds of loser's final, Gabriyel Chundan emerged the winner in the photo finish of the final race.

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