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Rajgad Fort - King of all forts


Rajgad (meaning Royal Fort or King of all Forts) is situated in Pune district, Maharashtra, India. Legend says that it was the capital of the Maratha Empire ruled by Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj for almost 26 years, after which he moved to Raigad fort and made that his capital.

We started off our journey from Mumbai on 28th November at around 11.00 pm towards Gunjavne (Base Village of Rajgad).  At around 5 am we reached the base village. We had breakfast  in the early morning and started our trek at around 6.30 am. 

There are 3 ways to trek to Rajgad. One is from Gunjavane village which leads to  Padmavati machee. This trek route is mainly known as Chor Darwaza (Secret Doorway).  Second route is also from Gunjavane village but it leads to Suvela Machee.  Third route is via Pali base village which leads to Pali Darwaza. Our route was through Chor Darwaza. 

The sun was rising slowly and steadily. The sky blazes above hills with a mix of orange and red colour and staining the horizon.  All of us were busy capturing this beautiful scenary.


After a few hours of trek , we entered the lush green part and now the fort was right there in front of us, full covered in green.  The fort can be divided into four different parts. There are  three sub-plateaus (Machee) namely Padmavati Machee, Suvela Machee and Sanjevani Machee, and at the center- Ballekilla (meaning "small fort").


Moving ahead , the trail starts getting steeper and steeper and then it is a vertical climb. There are railings on the steep slopes to help the trekkers reach the chor darwaza.


On reaching the summit, we get a  beautiful view of the surroundings covered with greenery.


After crossing the main entrance to the fort, we reached Padmavati machi. Near  the entrance of the fort, we get to see a beautifully constructed lake right in front- Padmavati Lake.


The walls of the lake are intact even today. An arch has been constructed from the continuation of the same wall to mark an entry to the lake.


After a few steps, we were near to Padmavati temple and had a wonderful breakfast of poha and tea in front of a small house near Padmavati Temple. Padmavati temple is in a fairly good state today due to renovation done recently.


The next check point was at the top of Balekilla – the top most point of the fort.  Balekilla is straight up in front of  Padmavati machi. The track splits into three parts, the straight one going up to Balekilla, the left one going towards Suvela machi and the right going to  Sanjeevani machi.

 

Due to time constraints, we skipped Suvela Machi. Facing east, Suvela Machi has lots of secret routes, doorways , nedha (Mountain hole). We continued our walk towards Balekilla.


The route to Balekilla was again very steep and for each of us having big bags at our backs, it seemed a bit tiring. The route to the top is somewhat slippery too but with the support of railings put along, the task was comparatively easier.

After climbing the difficult section, we reached the Maha Darwaja of Balekilla . It has a unique triangular structure and a single point access.


The fort in Rajgad stands as a silent reminder of Maharashtra's glorious past though the sound of trumpets or the clang of clashing swords and shields are heard no more at this historic monument.

This highest part of the fort  has remains of palaces, water lakes and water towers. One can view the whole fort and the vast surrounding expanse.

Below is the excellent look of Fort Torna from Balekilla of Rajgad. The snap also shows the route to Torna from Rajgad.



It offers an enchanting view of Padmavati, Sanjeevani and Suvela machi.


Below is the view of Padmavati machi from Balekilla.


There are a couple of temples, and a small crescent shaped lake called Chandratale on the Balekilla. The shape of this lake is similar to that of the moon decrescent. That is why this is called 'Chandratale' (The moon lake).


These are the ruins of the palace of Shivaji Maharaj on Balekilla.


Below is the view of Sanjeevani machi from the  top of Balekilla. The fort continues to charm and mesmerize  generations.


After entering Balekilla from the Mahadarvaja, you need to climb a few steps to go to Bramheshar Temple.


As we move from Padmavati machi keeping the Balekilla to our left, we approach Sanjivani machi.  This machi is enjoined with Budhala machi on Torna by a range of hills between the two huge forts.

Sanjivani machi is a huge, beautiful and royally constructed  machi, faces west and has 3 layered fortifications making it extremely difficult to conquer. Each layer has a depth of 20 feet and just 2 feet wide which looks like a scary narrow well. This type of construction was to aide guerilla warfare.

The Sanjeevani Machi of the fort has dual fortification. The dual fortification has made the fort more robust.


After exploring  the fort and  having  lunch, we started our descend by about 2 pm.


Soon we reached the base village. After having evening refreshment at the base village, we started  our return journey and reached Mumbai at around 10 pm .


Must-see attractions in Aurangabad



I remember my school days when I studied about Ajanta and Ellora Caves and the city of Aurangabad which houses these two World Unesco Heritage Sites. Aurangabad is a beautiful city  and most of the major attractions can be cover within two days. A  holiday to Aurangabad with friends can be as exciting as it can get, a few must-visits are listed below :

52 gates : Also known as the 'City of Gates', Aurangabad has 52 gates. These gates served as points of revenue collection while entering the town and were also used for surveillance purpose. Out of 52 , only 19 survive today.



Bibi Ka Maqbara :
The first stop that we made was  Bibi-ka-Maqbara -  a complete replica of Taj Mahal. It was built by Aurangzeb’s son in memory  of his mother. And what differentiates it from the original is that it started its structure being  built with marble and gradually moved on to bricks and plaster due to lack of funds.


Panchakki (water mill):
Next in-line was Panchakki, when translated means Water Mill. It is one of the engineering marvel, of such an old age, where the water was used to drive the mill and further get the flour from grains at that time. The Panckakki is a reminder of the level of India's technology and the ingenuity of some of our engineers - to use water of a natural spring and channelize its power to run a water mill.





Grishneshwar Jyotirlinga Temple :
Grishneshwar (Ghushmeshwar)Temple is an ancient pilgrimage site revered as the abode of one of the 12 Jyotirlinga manifestation of Lord Shiva.  We went inside the Garbagriha, had darshan and came out . Males have to remove the shirt before going inside Garbagriha. Since photography is  not allowed inside the temple complex,  I could not show you anything of the temple other than the spire, that too from a distance.  Then we headed towards Ellora  Caves.

Grishneshwar Jyotirlinga Temple
Ellora Caves
Almost 2 km wide, these caves are divided into three parts: Buddhism (caves 1-12), Hinduism (Caves 13-29) and Jainism (Caves 30-34).


Most of the caves are rich in ancient carvings, scriptures and iconography.

Kailasha temple at Ellora :
It was cave no. 16, the Kailash Temple and  is the largest monolithic structure in the world and was carved out by cutting three deep trenches of the hill.  The walls had exquisite sculptures of Shiva and other gods in different avatars .

Kailasha temple at Ellora

Bhadra Maruti (Hanuman) Temple:
This Hanuman temple is situated 2-3kms away from Ellora . Here, murti of Hanuman is in sleeping position.

Tomb of Mughal Emperor Aurangazeb :


After paying my respects to this Great Mughal Emperor I headed off to see Daulatabad Fort.

Daulatabad Fort 
Daulatabad Fort is located right on top of the Daulatabad hill at a height of 600 feet and is a 45 minutes climb from the main parking area.

The Daulatabad Fort

Himroo
Then we visited out last stop for the day, that was Aurangabad silk factory. Aurangabad is famous for Mashru and Himru fabrics made of cotton and silk with the luster of satin.


Then we headed back to the city and asked our driver to come to our hotel at 7 AM next morning for our travel to Ajanta caves.

Ajanta Caves:
The Ajanta Caves are at located at a distance of 104 kms from city.

On our way to Ajanta caves we saw a mass procession of villagers run with  Buffalo's and boisterous music of traditional orchestra, colorful palanquin and festival flags for the traditional Buffalo Fight Competition.


The  travel through wide and almost empty roads, paddy fields on both sides was really exciting. Enroute we had a pit sop for sugarcane juice.

After two and half hours journey , we reached the parking slot of the Ajanta caves. No private vehicle is allowed to reach caves.  A 10 minute ride in the eco friendly bus  picks you from the parking spot and drops you at the caves. After purchasing entry tickets, you need to climb steps to gain a height.

Ajanta Caves


Painting at Ajanta Caves

Then we climbed at the top of the caves from where one can see entire caves in 120 degree view.  I got a beautiful view of  Waghora River falling down the hill and it was really marvelous.

Waterfall on Waghora River


monks walking in cave area

Siddharth Garden:
The Siddharth Garden Zoo is situated in the heart of Aurangabad. A well maintained garden, elaborate with trees, flowers and an aquarium, rides, and a zoo, this one is ideal for some relaxed time in lush green and refreshing surroundings.


Then headed to catch our bus to Mumbai.  If you are a fan of culture, photography and architecture, then Aurangabad must be in your list.  

Ajanta Caves, Aurangabad


I remember my school days when I studied about Ajanta  Caves -  a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since then I had fantasised to see the caves which depict the story of Buddhism, spanning the period from 200 BC to 650 AD.

Our journey began from Aurangabad city at around  9.00 am. From there on it was just wide roads, songs, and absolute merry making.  A two and half hours journey from Aurangabad will take you to Ajanta caves, Maharashtra, India.

The road journey from Aurangabad to Ajanta caves is very scenic. The  travel through wide and almost empty roads, paddy fields on both sides and rolling hills was really exciting. Stop to take a few pictures before you drive to the next place.

Enroute a pit stop for break fast.  After two and half hour journey which covered 104 kms from Aurangabad, we reached the Ajanta Caves. Ample car parking is available in the parking area.

Then a short walk towards busbay through the market. The market has food joints and stalls selling handicrafts, paintings etc. No private vehicle is allowed to reach caves. You can catch shuttle bus which is running between market and caves. The journey will take around 10 minutes and will cost only Rs.15 per ticket. They will drop you near the caves ticket counter.

EXPLORING AJANTA CAVES

The entry ticket to Ajanta is Rs 10 for Indian Nationals and Rs 250 for foreign nationals. After taking entry ticket, we were all set to explore Ajanta caves. The caves are carved out of  basalt rock of a cliff. There are a total of 30 caves dug into the Satmala range of mountains.  There is a paved pathway running across the cliff over the U-shaped river gorge to reach  the caves.

Cave 1  has a front-court with cells fronted by pillared halls on either side. This cave features superb murals and imperial quality paintings. Cave No.1 has the most famous of all Ajanta images, the Bodhisatva Padmapani, with lotus flower in hand. Another one is the picture of Avalkoteshwara in shades of gold and the pearl necklace around his neck looks beautiful. The ceilings are also painted with sophisticated and elaborate decorative design.

Cave 1, Ajanta Caves, Aurangabad

Cave 2 is similar to Cave 1 but in better state of preservation. The cave has robust pillars-ornamented with designs.
Cave 2, Ajanta Caves, Aurangabad


Cave 3 is merely a start of an excavation. Cave 4 boast of some of the most divine sculptures. It consists of a verandah, a hypostyle hall, sanctum with an antechamber and a series of unfinished cells.
Cave 4, Ajanta Caves, Aurangabad

Caves 5 and 6 are viharas. Cave 6 is two viharas, one above the other, connected by internal stairs, with sanctuaries on both levels.  The upper floor of the cave has many private votive sculptures, and a shrine of Lord Buddha.

Cave 7 has  two porticos, a shrine room and a small room leading to the main one. This cave has no central hall.

CAVE 9,10

Both the caves are stupa containing worship halls of chaitya-griha form. Both the caves have lot of mural paintings both on the walls and the pillars.
Entrance of cave no. 9.( left)

Cave 10 is similar to cave 9. The cave consists of a central hall, pillars, paintings on walls and ceilings and a stupa.

Cave 10 tempera ( left from the 2nd raw)

Caves 12, 13, and 15A are viharas.

Cave 16, 17 have two great stone elephants at the entrance. The image of the Buddha preaching,  couples and their everyday life,  the 'coming of Sinhala' are some of the art in Cave 17.
Scenes from the Jataka tales ( 2nd from 2nd row), The prince (Prince Vijaya) is seen in both groups of elephants and riders. ( mid photo on the second row).

Other notable paintings on  cave 17 include the flying Apsara painting, a princess applying makeup, lovers in scenes of dalliance, and a wine drinking scene of a couple with the woman and man amorously seated, while attendants watch them.
Ceiling outside cave 17 ( 2nd from raw 1)

Cave 19 have high ribbed roofs carved into the rock with stupa, idols and paintings.



Cave 21 is a a partially built vihara.



Like Cave 21, Cave 24 is also a partially built vihara.


Cave 28 is an abandoned incomplete cave.



Cave 26  has a second period Mahayana style worship hall with stupa and idols. It has complete chaitya halls. Sleeping Buddha is one of the best carving in this cave.


At the end of the cave complex, you will get a full view of the Ajanta caves which is a landmark for the development of Buddhism in India.

Then we climbed  the top of the hills from where one can see entire caves in 120 degree view.

I got a beautiful view of  Waghora River falling down the hill and it was really marvelous.



We continued our walk  on the top of the hills. I noticed marble  layers in between the rocks.  And I tried to collect some marbles stones. Small pieces of stones with different colors look attractive. I watched few people collecting those stone pieces and selling them for high prices.

Soon we came out of the cave complex. MTDC canteen facility is available.
Monks walking in cave area

It was truly an archaeological class excursion for us.

THINGS TO REMEMBER

Entry time is restricted from 9 am to 5.50 pm
Use of additional light is not allowed inside the caves
Eatables not allowed in the caves premises
Video shooting is not allowed inside the cave
Photography with camera stand and flash light is not allowed inside the caves