The Chola Trail: Thanjavur-Chidambaram-Kumbakonam-Srirangam

 

Visiting Chola temples had been on my mind for a very long time. Finally, the day came, I could make this Chola trail covering the temples at Thanjavur, Chola Puram, Chidambaram, Kumbakonam, Darasuram and Srirangam,  during  August 11-14. 

Day 1 (August 11)

We started our journey at around 4 am from Kochi. The journey continued via Kottayam Kumily road. While passing through the high range road, we all were awestruck to see the glorious sight of mist at the backdrop of the mountains.

We had a pitstop at Peruvanthanam  at  around 8.30 am for breakfast. The views of the surrounding areas were absolutely mesmerizing.

After crossing Kumili ghat road, we had a short break around at 10.30 am at Cumbam Grape farm. There is a shop nearby from where you can purchase original grape wine that is brewed at the vineyard itself, at a cost of Rs.100/ per glass. They were also selling fresh grapes.  Had few photo- session and it was a big relief to stroll under this sea of violet grapes especially after you have travelled by bus for a long time.

Grape farms at Cumbum

Had lunch on the way at around 1 pm. It was already 5.30 pm, when we reached Thanjavur. So, we decided to visit the big temple, also known as Brihadeeswarar Temple. The Rain God welcomed us when we entered the temple.

This temple was built by the great Chola King Rajaraja Chola 1 and is dedicated to Lord Shiva and has one of the largest Shiva lingams in India. This temple is a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the "Great Living Chola Temples", along with the Chola-era Gangai Konda Chola Puram temple and Airavatesvara temple.

The temple is surrounded by fortified walls dotted with spaces to mount cannons and a big dry moat around it. The main gateways are on the east side. The temple complex has 3 entrance gates. The first being a small and simple gate called Maratha gate, built by the Marathas at a later period. 

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Entry is through a small Maratha gate, built at much later period by the Marathas.

 The Second one is the first Chola gopura and is called the Keralantakan tiruvasal, which means the "sacred gate of the Keralantakan".

The first Chola gateway/gopura known as Keralantakan tiruvasal

About 100 meters (330 ft) ahead is the second Chola gopura known as Rajarajan tiruvasal.  The inner eastern gopuram leads to a vast courtyard.

Second Chola gopura known as Rajarajan tiruvasal with its two large dwarapalas on either side of the door.

The complete structure of the temple is made out of granite. The main Vimana (Shikhara) is a massive 16 Storeys tower of which 13 are tapering squares. The temple faces east, and a flight of stairs lead to a pillared mandapa.

One of the main attractions of the temple is a big statue of Nandi and is sculpted out of a single rock and is facing the main shrine.

The Nandi mandapa shows colorful paintings on its ceilings.

Nandi shrine

The temple complex integrates a large pillared and covered veranda (prakara) in its spacious courtyard.

The pillared cloister that runs all-round the courtyard

108 Shiva-lingams inside the cloister

Brihadeeswara Temple Gopuram at night

It was already 8 pm, when we came out of temple premises and then moved to the hotel for a well-deserved dinner and sleep.

Day 2 (August 12)

Early morning, we visited the big temple again at 5.30 am.  We waited for some time at the entrance for the gates to open at 6 am. We circled around the main structure and then entered the Sanctum Sanctorum.  As the sun rises, the rays of it fall on the monument and it looks magnificent. 

Brihadeeshwara Temple – view at sunrise

 

Adjacent to Big Temple is Raja Raja Cholan Statue Park.

Raja Raja Cholan Statue Park

After breakfast at around 7.30, we checked out from the hotel and proceeded to Gangai Konda Chola Puram.

Reached the place at around 10 am and visited the Gangai Konda Chola Puram temple. We were lucky to visit the place that day, which celebrated the 1053rd birth anniversary of King Rajendra Chola and his 1009-year-old capital. There were various cultural programs arranged in connection with the celebration.

Legend says that the Chola king Rajendra I, the son of the famous Chola king Rajaraja I, to commemorate his victory over the Pala Dynasty, founded the city. The name means the town of the chola who brought Ganga (water from Ganga) or who defeated (the kings near) Ganga.

Gangai Konda Chola Puram Temple Entrance

The Nandi built in limestone is 200 meters away from the sanctum, facing the main shrine.

The well in the temple premises is considered a sacred place and water from this was used for all the activities at the temple. The interesting aspect is entrance to the well is through a Lion sculpture which is close to the well. A flight of steps takes one to the bottom of the well. This excellent structure is called as Simhakeni(Lion-well).

Simhakeni(Lion-well), Gangai Konda Chola Puram temple

The temple has many intricate sculptures and carvings that depict scenes from Hindu mythology and legends.

From Left to Right: Kalantakan form of Lord Siva, Natarajan with smile, Lord Shiva garlanding a devotee (middle one) also kown as Sandeshanugrahamurthy, Vishnu with his two Wive's, Siva pleasing Parvathi.

Originally, a two-storied hall ran all along the perimeter. None of it remains now, except for a bit that has survived on the northern edge of the complex. It is said that during the British era, stones from this part were carried away to build dam across the Cauvery River.

After darshan, we headed towards Chidambaram. We had our lunch at A2B restaurant at Chidambaram. It was around 2 pm when we finished lunch and temple will be opened at 4 pm only. For another 2 hrs., we had shopping around the temple area.

In Thillai Nataraja temple, Shiva is being worshiped as Nataraja, Lord of dance. The roof of the main sanctorum is covered by gold leaf. Another deity is Govindaraja, the form of Maha Vishnu as the Judge of the dance.

Chidambara Thillai Nataraja Temple

Religious paintings on the walls & ceilings of Nataraja Temple, Chidambaram

Shiva Ganga sacred pool

 It has entrance gateways on all four sides. From one point, you can see three gopuras at a time.

 By evening we started to Kumbakonam. Checked in the hotel at night around 8.30 pm and had  dinner.

Day 3 (August 13)

We started the day with Adi Kumbeswarar Temple, Kumbakonam at around 5.30 am. Adi Kumbeswarar temple is a famous Hindu temple dedicated to God Shiva located at the center of the Kumbakonam town.

The temple is approached by a long corridor with beautiful painting on the ceilings. The temple complex houses four Gopurams.

Adi Kumbeswarar Temple, Kumbakonam

The temple was not opened when we reached the place, so we waited there for a while.

Adi Kumbeswarar Temple, Kumbakonam

There are five silver-plated chariots in the temple which are used to carry the temple deities during festive occasions.

Adi Kumbeswarar Temple, Kumbakonam

After darshan, we walked to the nearby Sarangapani temple.

Rajagopuram of the temple

 

The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The procedure is to visit Lakshmi and then the lord Sarangapani. One of the interesting facts I noticed was, a cow is the first to have darshan of the Goddess and God, and only after that, devotees are allowed darshan.

The main shrine is designed as a Chariot, in stone, with elephants pulling it.

Completed the darshan and return to hotel at around 8.30am. Post breakfast checked out and moved to Dharasuram, Kumbakonam. 

Rajaraja Chola II built the current complex of Airavatesvara Temple in 12th century CE.

There is an interesting story about the temple. Sage Durvasa had cursed Indra’s elephant Airavata to lose its color and beauty for disrespecting him. Upset with guilt and regret,  Airavat prayed to Lord Shiva at this temple location. Lord asked him to take a dip in the temple tank. This dip in the temple tank magically restored the color of its skin. After this incident Shiva Lingam at Darasuram bears its present name – Airavatesvara.

Airavateswara temple Main Entrance View

One of the unique things is the musical steps at the entrance of the temple.  These stone steps 7 different sounds on tapping. One can hear all the 7 swaras at different points. Now it is concealed with metal frames.

Musical Steps and Nandi at the temple

The main temple complex is chariot fashioned. Whole complex is donned with carvings and sculptures of many Vedic and Puranic deities like Indra, Agni, Varuna, Vayu, Brahma, Surya, Vishnu, Saptamtrikas, Durga, Saraswati and many more. 

Airavateswara temple Inner Temple View

Airavateswara temple 108 Pillars Mandap

Marriage of Lord Siva, Ardhanareeshwarar, a form of Shiva as half man and half woman(middle), Standing delivery,Shiva flanked by Brahma (left) and Vishnu

We headed then to the town of Thanjavur for lunch. After lunch we proceeded to Srirangam. It was around 5.30 pm when we reached Ranganathaswamy Temple, Srirangam

Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple is a Hindu temple dedicated to Ranganatha (a form of Vishnu). The outer two prakarams (outer courtyard) are residential and markets with shops, restaurants and flower stalls. A 13-storey gopura (the Rajagopuram) - the main gopura on the street leads to the temple. 

Rajagopuram of Srirangam Ranganathaswamy Temple.

A 4-storey gopura

A 5-storey gopuram

To avoid the queue, we took a special darshan ticket of Rs 100 from temple complex counter.

The main shrine for Ranganatha is in the innermost courtyard. Shaped like Omkara (ॐ or Om symbol), the gold-plated Vimana ofSrirangam Temple is a sight to behold.

The Golden Vimanam of the temple

It was already dusk. We had group photo in the backdrop of 1000 pillar mandapam. This massive theatre is worth a visit for its architectural splendor.

Thousand pillar mandapam is a theatre like structure made from granite.

Near to the 100 pillar mandapam is a 9-storey gopura, commonly known as Vellai Gopuram (white tower) on the east side of the fourth enclosure has a steep pyramidal superstructure that reaches a height of almost 44 meters. 

The Vellai gopuram (white tower)  

It was already 7 pm. After dinner, we then headed straight to Kochi without making a major stop. This trip is one of the best trips I have ever made this year. It was truly a beautiful experience coupled with historical knowledge and having a spiritual effect.

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Madurai-Rameswaram-Dhanushkodi

After years of planning , I finally  got an opportunity for a trip to Rameswaram. Since it was not possible to see everything that we wanted to see,  we decided to focus our trip on three places - Madurai, Rameswaram and Dhanushkodi. We finally left for Rameswaram from Kochi on the evening of November 23rd.

Our route was via NH 45 Adimali/Theni/Kambam/Madurai

24.11.2018 - Day 1

It was around 9 am, when we reached Madurai. After refreshment and breakfast, we reached the South Gopura of Madurai Meenakshi temple. The temple was surrounded by shops and hotels. The temple has four towers or 'gopurams, with entry gate each and are engraved with beautiful sculptures of demons and gods. You are restricted from carrying cameras, mobile phones, bottles and food. The temple provides free cloak/footwear room near to the South Gopura.

South Gopura of Madurai Meenakshi temple

The temple complex has many mandapas (pillared-halls). Near to the South Gopura is a sacred temple tank , called  Porthamarai Kulam ("Pond with the golden lotus"). Surrounding the temple tank, there were 64 pictures of Shiva's Thiruvilayadals (miracles).  On the western side of the  tank, you can see  a small portico where you can see a portion of 17th and 18th century paintings of Nayak period.  It depicts the marriage of Sundareswarar and Meenkashi attended by Vijayaranga Chokkanatha and Rani Mangammal. After prayers, we visited Thousand Pillar Hall and it contains 985 (instead of 1000) carved pillars.

Prayers over, we returned to the hotel and checked out. Next up was Paazhamudur Cholai Temple.  Before boarding the bus, we bought some sweets from age old shops who sells Halwa made up of pure ghee and sugar.

Reached Paazhamudur Cholai Temple at around 11 am which is considered as one of the six important abodes of Lord Muruga. . It is situated atop a hill covered with dense forests, and there were many monkeys around the temple.

Paazhamudur Cholai Temple

Coming out, I could see a long queue to collect food which was donated by an organisation.

Next up was Rameshwaram. By this time, it was  lunchtime and we were searching for good restaurants along the way, which seemed hard especially in rural Tamilnadu.  Finally, we stopped at one hotel near Sivakasi.  With lunch over, we pushed on  towards Rameswaram. The road was good with less traffic. Once everyone settled in the bus, our coordinator put one Malayalam film.

It was 6 PM when we reached the Pamban Bridge. The Pamban bridge - Road bridge and the Railway bridge -  connects the shores of Mandapam and Pampan - the starting point of Rameshwaram island.

Pamban bridge

The bus dropped us in the middle of the bridge and allowed us to walk till end of the bridge. We could see the area built across the rail bridge where boats passes through and the bridge would lift up when the boat comes. We could see Fish Landing Centre from the bridge. By that time sun started to set creating a mixture of orange, yellow and dark blue hues.

Sun set view from Pamban bridge

Our accomodation was arranged in Hotel RSN International located in Sannadhi St and is a walk-able distance to the Temple and the Agni Theertham. I was tired after a long journey. After dinner, me and one of my co traveller walked around the temple to photograph the stunning views of Gopura and the life around the temple.  There were small tea shops and hotels around the temple selling tea and food. Cows were roaming around the street which reminisce me of the Varanasi streets.

11.00 pm. time to bed. Went back to hotel. It was worth  to spend the night in a hotel located near to the temple and the beach. Last goodbye to day's hectic travel, quick shower and off to bed after a fantastic day.

25.11.2028 - Day 2

In the early morning at 5.30  our guide reached our hotel to help us to take bath in Theertham and other rituals. Wearing white Dhoti we walked towards Agni Teertham. First we visited the Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam.  Statues of Sri Adi Sankara with his four principal disciples is located at the top of the tower, facing the sea. The Life History of Adi Sankara is depicted in the form of carvings on the tower.

Sri Sankara Matam, Rameswaram

AGNI THEERTHAM

Agni theertham sea  is  located just 50 meter from the Rameswaram temple. Those who wanted to take sacred bath should first take bath in Agni theertham and followed by bath in theerthams inside the temple. The ghats were caught up in the early morning bustle.  Facilities are available for those who wanted to take holistic rituals such as tharpanam(ritual for the ancestors who were dead). After bath, all of us went ahead to Rameswaram temple in wet cloths for holy bath in 22 wells.

Agni theertham sea

After bath in 22 wells inside the temple, we came back to hotel to change our dress. Then proceeded to temple visit.

Ramanatha Swamy temple

Photography is strictly prohibited inside the temple premises. You can take special pass for Rs.50. A  huge Nandi idol is placed in the entrance. We were about to hear an interesting story from our guide.The Shiva lingam of Lord Rameswaram is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas. It is believed that Sri Rama worshiped the Shiva Lingam of Lord Siva. After Ravana's death, Lord Rama came to Rameshwaram with Lord Sita and decided to worship  the deity of Shivalingam  and perform pooja  to save his sins. But Hanuman was unable to bring Shivlingam on time. But Sita created one Shivlingam by spraying salt water into the sand of the sea and the same was installed at that moment. After that, Hanuman arrived from Kailash with Shiva Lingam. It is believed that seeing the face of the sad and angry Hanuman, the new shivlingam was placed near to the shivalingam of Sita. Since Lord Rama, the incarnation of Lord Vishnu,  worshiped  the Shiva Linga (Shiva)  by his own hand, the Vaishna Saiva Vedanta devotees comes to pray here. It is believed that if you pray in this temple, all sins will be washed away.

We walked through the third corridor,  which is said to be the longest pillared corridor in the world with its 1212 pillars. The carvings on the pillars have been painted in bright colors.

Arrived back to hotel, checked out,  left our luggage inside the bus.  After a leisurely breakfast, moved out to visit  Dhanushkodi.

DHANUSHKODI

Since heavy vehicles are not permitted to Dhanushkodi, we hired a small van. Dhanushkodi is around 20 kms from Rameswaram. When the van crossed the city limit, I tried to remember  the tragedy that  happened to Dhanushkodi 56 years back. It was on 22 December 1962, when the clock turned 23.55, one passenger train with around 150 people was crossing Pamban to Dhanushkodi, when suddenly a strong wind followed by heavy rain washed out Dhanushkodi and the train drowned in the high tides and all of the passengers died. Two villages and  port city vanished  and 1800 humans died from Pampan island. Entire Dhanushkodi was wiped out. Dhanuskodi is declared as a ghost town by the government after this natural calamity.

The road was empty and we could see only travelers along the way. Both side of the road were tied with big stones to protect from waves.The left side of the road is Indian Ocean and right side is Bay of Bengal.

Road ahead to Dhanushkodi

When Dhanushkodi approached, we could see people living in bamboo houses. Fishing is the main occupation. There are many shops on both sides of the road.

Dhanushkodi was a major port city in Bengal cost since British rule. It has port, railway station, water tank, post office, church, temple , hospital, school , hotels and other shops. Now we could see only ruins. It was also famous for people coming here for Bali karma.

On the left, we  saw the remains of the old railway station.

Old Railway Station, Dhanushkodi

Near to the Old railway station is an old Tank.

Old Tank, Dhanushkodi

You can see parts of the old mosque on the right side of the road. They are many stalls near to the mosque which sells Shakh and chippi.

Old mosque, Dhanushkodi

Wading through stories, we finally reached  the tip of Dhanushkodi. The bus dropped us at the end of the road and it is the last turnaround of South India. In the middle you can see an Ashoka Stupa. This is the place where  seas Indian ocean (A sea with high tides) and Bay of Bengal (the low tide sea) merges. The area was crowded with people and vehicles. This is the land border of India and Srilanka which is nearly about 15 kms from here. It is believed that Ram Sethu was built from here to Sri Lanka. 

tip of  Dhanshkodi

People from the locality were selling cut fruits, nuts etc. and they do not have any other income sources in this place. Before heading back to Rameswaram, try to taste those fruit cuts  - mango, pineapple , etc. from local people.

Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Monument

This is the last place in our chart before leaving Rameswaram. It showcases memories from the life of Dr.APJ Abdul Kalam. Curious to know more, I entered the museum with high expectations. Dr. Kalam's life is depicted through portraits. Statues of Dr. Kalam in presidential suite, in sitting and standing, last moments in his life is also displayed here. In another section, personal belongings of Dr.Kalam, sample model of missiles and rockets with which Dr.Kalam had worked are also displayed. Photography inside the memorial is prohibited for visitors.  If you complete the inside views, the outdoors  are perfectly sublime.

Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam Monument

After lunch we started our return journey. When we crossed the Pampan bridge, we could see lots of peacock's in the railway track.

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