Mountain Getaway : Meghamalai

Meghamalai  is located in the Western Ghats in Theni zone, the Indian state of Tamil Nadu and is situated at an altitude of 1,500 m above sea level.

At 5.30 am,  our party of 26 boarded the van from Kochi. When each one of us boarded from different locations, we exchanged quiet good-mornings and set off through the darkness. Our route was,  Kochi - Idukki - Kumily - Cumbum - Chinnamanur - Megamalai

After breakfast at Neriamangalam and frequent halts, we crossed Kumily check post by noon. Unplanned stops are always a pleasure especially when you are travelling through high ranges. From Cumbum onwards, we passed through paddy fields, Coconut and grape plantations. Meghamalai mountain range can be approached in two ways - via Chinnamanur and from Andipatti via Kandamanayakkanur.  Our route was via Chinnamannur which is more scenic. We took a right turn from Chinnamannur town and along the outskirts of Chinnamannur town, the road was surrounded by towering hillocks which is the reserve forest area.

Meghamalai is not a famous travel spot among the tourists. After crossing Chinnamannur check post, we were greeted by ghat road. We were negotiating with dozens of sharp hairpin bends.

 
You can see traces of Cinnamannur village on the other side. There were view points at some places and the views kept getting better as we went higher.

Just before reaching Meghamalai, the tea estates greeted us with a greenish grin. The ride ended near a temple surrounded by tea estates. Most of the 6000 acres of tea plantation in Meghamalai is owned by the private tea planters. It’s so hard to spot any restaurants or hotels in this place.

And we started walking towards our base camp. As I made  my way through the tea-carpeted hills of Meghamalai,  I found workers going back to their home after a busy day.

Since Meghamalai is part of Western Ghats, this place resembles Ooty or Munnar because of its cool and misty mountain ranges.  First few minutes of our walk was through tea estates. The neat tea-lined valleys and a walk through the plantations that shaped Meghamalai make for a tasteful break.

Then we made our way through the forest with steep hiking. Every trial offers a fresh adventure whether it is through forest or plantations.

After half an hour walk through tea estates and forest,  we reached the base camp at around 4 pm. Our base camp was set up on a ridge looking out at the valley but clouds had gathered,  obscuring views of the valley. Simple vegetarian lunch was waiting for us.

Our actual plan was a two hour nature walk but we skipped our plan as we were already late. After resting for some time, we were busy with tent setting  and food preparation. Chicken was highly featured in the dinner. The whether was cool and there was heavy storm and mist in the area.

DAY 2

When I stepped out of my tent at dawn,  I saw the surrounding stripped of cloud cover followed by heavy wind.

After a quick breakfast of Upma, we set off.  Our destination was 'Varayadu Motta' which is famous for the presence of Nilgiri Tahr.  'Motta' means barren hills. There are five 'Mottas' in this region. There are many routes to reach the 'Varayadu Motta'. But we took the longest route through a combination of plantations, thick forest and open meadows.

After crossing the forest area, we entered the beautiful tea estate. You will be mesmerized with views of the deep valley and the forest-covered hillsides.

When you go higher, you will get a good view of the surrounding valleys and views of small towns and villages surrounded by mountains.  It took us a little around three hours to reach the first hill top, through mostly flat terrain, making plenty of stops to admire the flora and fauna along the way.

There were plenty of ascents and descents that varied through tea estates, coffee plantations and thick forests.

Since the area is a reserved forest area, which always means that there is the possibility of sighting animals like elephants, Indian gaur, deer etc. We were in a constant lookout for animals, but had no luck. We found elephant dung on the way. Beware of leeches as  we ended up with few leech bites inside the forest.

And we climbed  the hill.  It was such a peaceful place with virgin mountains.  Then the trek towards the peak where clouds covered the mountains begins. And we walked down through narrow edges towards the hill. Heavy wind was blowing and we tried to balance our self while walking through the edges.

We were in the middle of no where.  From this point, you will get a panoramic view of the mountains around for its sloping terrain. The plan was to walk till the end of the hill. Wind was blowing heavily and all of us were  trying to balance and some of us even sat down. My legs were shivering. We sat at the edge of the valley. Without taking further risk, we decided to return.

Returned to the base camp at around 2 pm. After lunch and rest for some time, we started our return journey.  Enroute, just  before reaching the check post, we had a pit stop for tea and snacks. After descending the ghat road and another ascending ghat road till Kumily, we stopped at Kumily town for dinner. From Kumily to Kochi, we retraced the route that  me and my wife had visited two weeks back on our vacation to Thekkady.

Prior permission is an absolute must to visit Meghamalai. Since this is a reserved forest area,  you must reach the check-post at least before 6 PM.

Road trip : From Kochi to Thekkady & Vagamon

It was a long weekend, thanks to Dussehra and Gandhi Jayanti, and I had been planning a family trip to somewhere in North India—a place I had never visited before.

But sometimes, the best travel plans are the ones you don't make.

A different plan awaited me. Instead of heading north, I found myself setting off on a road trip to Thekkady with my wife. What followed was a beautiful journey through Kerala's hills, valleys, tea estates, waterfalls and winding mountain roads.

Thekkady, situated close to the Kerala–Tamil Nadu border, is famous for the Periyar Tiger Reserve, spice plantations and the scenic beauty of the Western Ghats. But for us, the journey to Thekkady turned out to be as memorable as the destination itself.

And as the saying goes, it is not the destination that matters, but the journey.

Day 1: Kochi to Thekkady

We started early from our home in Kochi. The roads were relatively empty, the morning air was pleasant, and the thought of a long drive ahead made the morning exciting.

Since we were going to be on the road for several hours, we packed plenty of water and snacks.

Our route was:

Kochi → Thrippunithura → Pala → Mundakayam → Kuttikanam → Peermade → Vandiperiyar → Thekkady

The initial stretch was comfortable, but after Mundakayam, the character of the journey changed completely. The ghats began, and the road started winding through lush green countryside, with mountains and deep valleys accompanying us all the way.

The stretch through NH 183 was particularly enjoyable. The further we climbed, the greener the landscape became.

But Thekkady was not the only attraction on this route. There were several lesser-known places worth stopping for.

Panchalimedu: A Hidden Gem in the Hills

Our first detour was to Panchalimedu.

From NH 183, we took a deviation at Murinjapuzha junction. The road to Panchalimedu is narrow, winding and full of curves. It may not be the easiest drive, but the scenery makes the effort worthwhile.

Panchalimedu consists of rolling hilltops with crosses scattered across the landscape. From the top, the views of the surrounding valleys are spectacular.

We arrived when grey-blue monsoon clouds were gathering over the hills. A cool breeze swept across the mountaintop while occasional rays of sunlight broke through the clouds, illuminating patches of the valley below.

It was one of those moments when you simply stop talking and admire what is in front of you.

The Legend of Panchalimedu

Panchalimedu is associated with the Pandavas of the Mahabharata. According to local belief, the Pandavas spent part of their exile in these forests, and Draupadi is said to have created a shrine dedicated to Goddess Durga.

One of the attractions here is Panchalikulam, or the pond of Panchali, where Draupadi is believed to have bathed.

Whether you visit for the legends or simply for the landscape, Panchalimedu offers a peaceful break from the main highway.

Panchalikulam, Panchalimedu

Valanjanganam Waterfalls

After leaving Panchalimedu, we continued our drive through the ghats.

Between Panchalimedu and Vandiperiyar, beside NH 183, lies Valanjanganam Waterfalls.

The waterfall is easily noticeable from the road and makes for a convenient stop during the journey. The sight and sound of falling water, surrounded by the greenery of the Western Ghats, provided another pleasant interruption to our drive.

Valanjaganam water falls

Parunthumpara: Standing Above the Valley

Our next stop was Parunthumpara.

From Kallar junction, we turned right and drove for around three kilometres before reaching this spectacular viewpoint.

Parunthumpara is perched high above the surrounding landscape, and the first glimpse of the valley from here is breathtaking.

Parunthumpara view point

The place is known for attractions such as Suicide Point and Tagore Head, named after the great Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore.

Standing on the edge and looking across the vast landscape, we could see the hills and forests stretching into the distance in different shades of blue and green.

Tagore head at Parunthumpara

It is an exhilarating feeling standing there, taking in the view of the vast valley and Sabarimala forests painted in myriad shades of blue and green.

Vandiperiyar: Through the Tea Estates

From Parunthumpara, we continued towards Vandiperiyar.

The landscape gradually changed as sprawling tea estates appeared on both sides of the road. The green tea gardens seemed to roll endlessly over the hills.

Vandiperiyar is also an important centre for tea production, and several tea factories can be seen along the route.

The Periyar River flows through the town, adding to the greenery and supporting the plantations around it.

The drive through Vandiperiyar was one of the most enjoyable stretches of our journey.

Kumily and Thekkady

The final stretch took us towards Kumily and Thekkady.

Thekkady is the gateway to the famous Periyar Wildlife Reserve, located about four kilometres from Kumily.

Kumily may be a small town, but it has everything a traveller needs—hotels, homestays, restaurants and shops selling local products.

We had booked a hotel near Thekkady Junction. After checking in, having lunch and resting for a while, we went for a walk through the streets of Kumily.

The town is particularly interesting for its spice shops. Along with pepper, cardamom and other spices, you can find homemade chocolates, condiments and other local products.

After a long day on the road, it was a pleasant way to end our first day.

Day 2: Periyar Lake and the Road to Vagamon

We woke up early the next morning because we had planned to experience one of Thekkady's most popular attractions—the boat ride through Periyar Lake.

Boating Through Periyar Lake

I reached the Tourism Police Information Centre at around 5:45 AM.

At the time of my visit, the entry pass was ₹53 per person, with an additional ₹38 for carrying a still camera. From the ticket counter, there was a four-kilometre bus ride to the boating centre.

Once there, we had to join the queue for the boating tickets.

The boating fee was ₹225 per person, and a maximum of 340 people could travel in one slot.

The boat timings were: 7:30 AM,9:30 AM,11:15 AM,1:45 PM,3:30 PM

The boat ride offered an opportunity to experience the lake and surrounding forest from a completely different perspective.

Periyar is also the starting point for several guided activities in the reserve. Depending on your interests, you can choose activities such as nature walks, jungle camps and bamboo rafting.

Guided spice tours are another popular option, where visitors can learn about spices such as pepper, cardamom, cinnamon and nutmeg.

Boating centre, Periyar Tiger Reserve

Taking the Road Less Travelled

We left Thekkady before noon.

Instead of returning to Kochi through the same route, we decided to make the journey more interesting by travelling through Vagamon.

Our route was:

Thekkady → Vandiperiyar → Peermade → Elappara → Vagamon

The drive once again took us through beautiful hill country.

Elappara: A Drive Through Tea Country

The tea estates became prominent once we reached Elappara.

The name Elappara is associated with cardamom, one of the important spices grown in this region.

The road twisted and turned through the hills like a roller coaster. On either side, there were uninterrupted views of lush green tea gardens.

Driving through this landscape was an experience in itself. Every bend seemed to reveal another beautiful view.

Vagamon: Meadows in the Clouds

Vagamon was our next major stop.

One of the places we visited was the Paragliding View Point.

Visitors can purchase an entry ticket and drive up to a point roughly 500 metres from the viewpoint. From there, you need to climb the hill to reach the top.

The effort is worth it.

From the viewpoint, the famous Vagamon meadows spread out before you, surrounded by rolling hills and open skies.

Paragliding view point, Vagamon

We also stopped at several other attractions, including the Vagamon Orchidarium & Floriculture Project, Pine Valley and the Barren Hills, popularly known as Motta Kunnu in Malayalam.

Each place had its own character, but the landscape itself was the biggest attraction.

Vagamon to Kochi: Through the Mountains

After lunch, it was time to begin our final drive back to Kochi.

Instead of taking the route through Kottayam, we chose the Moolamattom–Thodupuzha route.

The road from Vagamon towards Moolamattom was a completely different driving experience.

The road passed through steep and winding mountain slopes, with deep valleys and magnificent views appearing around almost every bend.

It was exhilarating—but also a stretch that demanded caution.

The curves are steep in places, and drivers need to be particularly careful. A vehicle in good condition, controlled speed and attentive driving are essential on this section of the road.

Elapally Waterfalls

Before reaching Moolamattom, we stopped at Elapally Waterfalls.

The waterfall originates in the upper reaches of the Western Ghats and is another scenic attraction along this route.

Elapally water falls

After Moolamattom, the road became much easier and continued smoothly towards Thodupuzha.

At Thodupuzha, I stopped for a cup of tea.

That simple cup of tea was enough to recharge me for the final stretch of the journey.

Soon, we were back on the road to Kochi.

The Journey Was the Destination

By the time we reached home, we had travelled through mountains, valleys, tea plantations, waterfalls, forests and small towns.

What had begun as an unexpected change of plans turned into one of those road trips that stay in your memory for a long time.

Thekkady itself is a wonderful destination, but what made this trip special was everything we encountered along the way—the mist-covered hills of Panchalimedu, the waterfalls near the highway, the breathtaking views from Parunthumpara, the tea estates of Vandiperiyar and Elappara, the meadows of Vagamon and the winding roads of the Western Ghats.

There is a special joy in driving your own car through vast green landscapes, stopping whenever a view catches your eye, having tea at a roadside shop and discovering places that were never part of the original plan.

Sometimes, the best trips are not the ones carefully planned months in advance.

They are the ones where the road itself becomes the adventure.

And this road trip from Kochi to Thekkady and back through Vagamon was exactly that.