Lucknow Guide : Kebab, Chikankari and Architecture

I had  read much about Lucknow over the years. It was the capital of the Nawabs of Awadh during the 18th and 19th century who lived well, enjoyed the arts and indulged in good food. Hence, Lucknow is often lovingly referred to as the city of Nawaabs, Tehzeeb (Respect), Kebab (Food) & Shabaab (Beauty). The rulers of many dynasties ruled the city which finally came under the rule of British. After independence, the city was made the capital of Uttar Pradesh.

A road trip from Kanpur to Lucknow on a Sunday morning and  much of the countryside appeared just as I had  imagined. During the 2 hours journey covering 94 kms, I noticed the empty paddy fields on both the sides covered by smog.

Here are some places you must visit while in Lucknow.

MARVEL AT THE ARCHITECTURE OF BARA IMMAMBARA

Nestled in expansive lawns, Bara Imambara, also known as Asafi Imambara was constructed in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud Daulah, the fourth Nawab of Awadh. Bara means huge or big, and an imambara (a congregation hall) is a shrine for Muslim community built by Shia Muslims for the purpose of prayer or Azadari. The monument has two levels of entrances, a large courtyard, and gardens. You can take the entry ticket from the second entrance.

The main building is constructed on a high platform and this three storey building is still impressive. The main feature of this monument is that no pillars or beams were used to support the roof and it shows  the architecture sensibility of the era.

The central hall which is the largest among nine halls in the monument, has the tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula and a beautifully designed ceiling.

Central Hall. Bara Imambara, Lucknow

The eight other halls are small and surround the central one, divided by thick pillars and walls.

LABYRINTH ( BHUL BHULAIYYA)

Bhul Bhulayya is a part of the monument that has a network of walls. It is a labyrinth of hundreds of narrow stairway passages, some of which also have dead ends, which was constructed to confuse intruders. It is easy to get lost when you walk through these passages.

 Labyrinth (Bhul Bhulayya),  Bara Imambara, Lucknow

ASFI MOSQUE

Asafi Masjid was constructed by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah. No iron was used in the construction of the mosque which makes it stand out. The mosque is located to the right of the Bara Imambara’s gate.

Asafi Mosque, view from Bara Imambara, Lucknow

SHAHI BAULI ( BARA) IMAMBARA

Shahi bauli  is situated inside the Bara Imambara and this monument has a five-storey baoli or step well and is also known as Shahi Hammam.  It is said that the step well is directly connected to Gomti.

 Shahi Bauli, Bara Imambara, Lucknow

CHOTA IMMAMBARA

Chota Imambara is also known as Imambara Hussainabad Mubarak. Mohammad Ali Shah, the third Nawab of Awadh, built the imambara. Here Shia Muslims perform mourning ceremonies in the month of Muharram. This imambara is also a mausoleum of the third nawab and his mother. The grand gateway of Chota Imambara is referred to as the Naubat Khana.  There are five doors to enter the imambara along with two halls and a platform. Looking at the central line of fountains and hanging bridge of the Char Bagh styled gardens, similar to the Taj Mahal, you inhabit again the world of the Nawab's. This must be how they lived.

The entire hallway is filled with colorful chandeliers that supposedly came from Belgium. Gilded mirrors, stunning lamps and more antiquities are from Europe.

RUMI DARWAZA ( RUMI GATE )

A short walk from Bara Imambara is the Rumi Darwaza, which  was built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah in 1784 on the basis of Awadhi architecture. Rumi Darwaza is also known as Turkish Gate as per the resources from the British. Historians say that the structure is the replica of a gate in Constantinople currently known as Istanbul.

HUSSAINABAD CLOCK TOWER

Husainabad Clock Tower  is located adjacent to the Rumi Darwaza, and is a perfect example to the artistic and structural skills of the Englishmen. It was built in the year 1881 by Nawab Nasir-ud-din Haider to mark the arrival of Sir George Couper, 1st Lieutenant Governor of United Province of Avadh.  Husainabad clock tower is considered as the tallest among all the clock towers in India and was built as a replica to the BIGBEN clock tower of London.

SHOPPING AND FOOD

Like most culinary cities, Lucknow has plenty of great markets for shopping and eating. Some of the major and famous shopping places in Lucknow are Aminabad, Kapoorthala, Hazratganj and Janpath. As we turned onto bustling Aminabad market, we were  trying hard to walk through the crowd.

Aminabad Market, Lucknow

The first thing that comes to mind while talking about shopping in Lucknow is of course the famous "Chikankari" (means Chikan embroidery work ) of Lucknow, , which is well-known all over India. Chikan is a very famous thread work that is done by the skilled craftsmen of Lucknow. It is combined with  crystal work and embroidered  on clothes for women, men and kids.

"Chikankari" of Lucknow

What is on the menu in Lucknow?  Tunday Kebab and Kachori, accompanied by Makhan Malai, a kind of frothy sweet dish. The Mughal and Awadhi cuisines, which dominate most of the North Indian food worldwide, originated in Lucknow. Tunday means handicapped and they got their name because the person who made them first was handicapped. Over a 100 masalas go into the making of this royal kebab and are best served with rumali roti. A visit to Lucknow is incomplete without trying the local favourite - Tunday Kebab.

STREETS

The design of street lights reminiscing the  ancient days.

Remnants of good old days still linger in Lucknow with old buildings and the toots of cycle rickshaws. It was a nice experience to roam around Lucknow city in a Cycle-Rickshaw.

AMBEDKAR MEMORIAL

Ambedkar Memorial, a major attraction of modern Lucknow is spread over 107 acres of land in Gomti Nagar.  This memorial was constructed by the BSP Government.

KANSHI RAM MEMORAIL

Kanshi Ram Memorial is a memorial of Bahujan Samaj Party founder Kanshi Ram situated at VIP road. It is considered as the bigggest dome in India constructed by the BSP Government.

From a perfect blend of modern and old architecture to busy streets and local cuisines, a day in Lucknow straddles many eras.

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Sarnath - Land of Ruins And Modern Buddhist Temples

It was  2 PM when  we rushed to Sarnath after a visit to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Our plan was to reach back before 5'o clock for a boat ride in the Ganges.  But Sarnath, one of the four major pilgrimage destinations for Buddhists, had lots of surprises in store. Situated just 10 km from Varanasi, Sarnath is one of the most revered Buddhist pilgrimage centers.

WAT THAI SARNATH TEMPLE

This Buddhist temple is built in Thai style. Since there was less crowd at the museum, we wandered freely, gazing at the Buddha temple, Buddha statue and the well maintained garden.

Wat Thai Sarnath Temple, Sarnath  

The golden statue of  Lord Buddha  is indeed very beautiful.

As the sun began  its downward descent,  the side view of the  brown-colored  temple building was simply amazing.

Side view of Buddha temple, Sarnath

THE GIANT BUDDHA

A 80 ft.high Buddha Statue is located near to the temple. It is considered as the tallest standing Buddha statue in India.

Buddha Statue. Sarnath

ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

We left the temple premises and walked towards the archaeological museum. It consists of  five galleries and two Varandahs. It has various ancient objects from the Buddhist arts, images of Hindu Gods  etc. Photography is strictly prohibited inside the museum.  Entry time is restricted between 10.00 am and 5.00 pm  and it is open on all days except Friday.

Archaeological Museum

EXCAVATED SITE

The excavation site of Sarnath has an impressive collection of monasteries, stupas, temples, inscriptions, sculptures and other antiquities ranging in date from 3rd century B.C. to 12th century A.D.  These sites are now maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India

DHARMARAJIKA STUPA

This structure is said to be one of the few pre-Ashoka stupas remaining. It is a large circular base made of bricks. This base has some layers of bricks and the upper surface is completely flat.

Monks pay their respects at Dharmarajika Stupa

DHAMEK STUPA

Of  the structures, Dhamek Stupa, a well - preserved archaeological blue print of  Buddhist structures in India, is the highlight.  The Stupa is 28.5 meters in diameter at the base and 42.60 meters in height, built partly of stone and partly of brick. According to an instruction dated 1026 A.D. recovered from the site, its old name was Dharma Chakra Stupa. This is the place where Lord Buddha preached his first sermon. In search of the relic casket, Alexander Cunnigham bored a vertical shaft through its center down to the foundation level and at a depth of 91.4 cms, He found a slab with the inscription "Ye Dharma Hetu Prabhava hetu...." written in the brahmi script of 6th-7th century AD. Further below, he traced out a stupa made of Mauryan bricks.

Dhamek Stupa, Sarnath

The lower part of the  wall is covered with beautiful geometric designs, Swastika, leaf and floral patterns combined with birds and human figures.

There is a sign-board clearly requesting the tourists not to stick the golden foils on the walls of these ruins. We found gold pasted on the lower part of the stupa.

VOTIVE STUPAS

There are many ruins of small stupas, Buddha Vihars and a small temple in this escavated site. These small stupas are known as votive stupas.

Remnant of Votive Stupas and Viahrs

The great Dhamekh Stupa and several other structures stand testimony to the importance of the place enjoyed at that time. A must visit place, when you are in Varanasi.

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Varanasi

Just after a week in Kanpur on an official visit, I managed to make my first visit to Varanasi, the spiritual capital of India ! It was unplanned and it just happened !! After a night long journey, we reached Lahartara in Varanasi at around 5 AM. Fortunately, we got an autorickshaw and we asked the driver to drop us at any one of the hotels near the temple. Since our visit was on the very next day of 'Dev Deepavali' which is a famous festival of Benaras, all hotels were occupied. But finally, after much search, we could manage to get a room near Shivala ghat.

By 6 AM, I was in the Ghats ( steps down in to the Ganga river) and Galis ( narrow alleys)  of Varanasi. There I was in Varanasi -  the City of Lights , also known by the name of Kashi and Banaras. This is the place where River Varuna and Asi merges with the Ganges. Hence Varun-asi or Varanasi. It is situated along the west bank of the holy Ganga River in the state of Uttar Pradesh in India. Wandering through the Galis of this 3000 years old city offers photographers and  travellers a unique opportunity to understand the soul of India.

VARANASI GHATS

Ghats are the signature in this holy city and all Galis  and roads  lead to the Ganges. Situated along the banks of the holy river Ganges, there are around 85 Ghat's in Varanasi. Each of the Ghats has a different name, history and importance. Walking along the Ghats will make you feel relaxed, especially during winter. And you can experience the local life as well.

The banks of the Ganges is beautiful in the early morning when  morning prayers and rituals begin. Ancient buildings overlooking the Ganges glowing in the crisp early light is certainly a sight to behold. Boats were resting at the tip of the Ghat. 

HOLY BATH IN GANGES

As the first rays of  the Sun shine on the waters of Ganga, devotees take their holy dip before starting the day.  In this holy city of India,  bathing in the ghats is a major  attraction.  It is believed that a ritual bath in Ganges or a holy dip would  wash away a lifetime of sins. I had  a holy dip too and it was a heavenly feel of blessings.

This is the best time to photograph the city. But there is little time for this, as I had to visit the Kashi Vishwanath temple. 

KASHI VISWANTH TEMPLE

It was around 8'o clock in the morning . As we ventured into  the streets of Varanasi, shops were still to be opened. As camera, mobiles and eateries are not allowed inside the temple, we had to keep all our belongings in our hotel room. Had dosa from road side eateries and we moved towards Gate No.2 of Vishwanath temple or Golden temple which is dedicated to Lord Vishveswara- Lord Shiva who is the  Lord of the Universe. It is one of the twelve Jyotir Linga sites in India.  There was a long queue through the narrow walk way with shops and houses all around. Shops were selling pooja items and Banaras sarees .  Chants of  ‘Har-Har Mahadev‘ reverberated through the air.  The temple complex is spacious and it houses a small Shivalingam - Tryambaka. After having darshan of the Lord of Lords, I came out of the temple with blessings of the  Supreme Lord. It was a long queue for almost 5 hours, but worth the visit.  A trip to Varanasi  is incomplete without a visit to this temple.

KASHI VISHALAKSHI TEMPLE

There are many small temples around the main temple. We decided to visit the Vishalakshi Temple or Vishalakshi Gauri Temple which is  dedicated to  Goddess Vishalakshi  and is very near to Gate No.2. It is generally regarded as a Shakti Pitha, the most sacred temples dedicated to the Hindu Divine Mother. 

SHOPPING AND FOOD

The narrow lanes were laced with old houses, temples, shops selling sweets and Banarasi silk sarees, food stalls and pan shops. The streets are crowded with stray cows, dogs and cycle rickshaws. You can taste crispy kachoris, paans, lassi,  chaats and piping hot samosas.

BOAT RIDE ALONG THE GHATS

A boat ride through the Ganges is the best way to see the ghats. You can select morning or evening ride depending  upon  your choice. In the evening you can have a good view of  Ganga aarti at Dashaswamedh ghat from the boat.

Boats assembled at Dashaswamedh ghat for evening Ganga aarti

EVENING GANGA AARTI AT  DASASWAMEDH GHAT

The evening arati at Dashaswamedh ghat is an experience which cannot be expressed in words. Everyday this aarti ceremony starts at 6.45 in the evening and  continues for 45 minutes. Divinely inspired  music and Ganga aarti fill our hearts and you can sit and watch  the priests performing the aarti.  This is one of the most memorable moments in Varanasi.

You can also release a small leaf boat into the Ganges with flowers and a small lamp in it.  It is believed that the boat carries your hopes and prayers to the Gods.

Offering of lights to the Ganges.

Varanasi is  magical in every sense of the word.  A place where the whole concept of life, death and rebirth offers a new meaning, a new definition !! A place where the mind connects with the soul !!

 After having dinner from a nearby hotel ,  we started our  return journey after a  spiritually fulfilling and rejuvenating experience. One should visit this place at least once in their lifetime. 

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