Muziris Heritage Tour - A cruise through Kerala's ancient spice route

Muziris, an abbreviation for Muchiri Pattanam is an ancient port town in the Indian state of  Kerala. Stretched between North Paravur in Ernakulam district and Thrissur district, Muziris shores played a vital role as a centre to trade and commerce for black pepper or ‘black gold’ in exchange for gold coins, wine and wheat. History says that 31 countries in Europe, Asia and Far East had trade with Muziris in the first century of BC.

Sadly, in 1341 AD, Muziris was hit by a flood that devastated the port and the spice route was destroyed. After Kerala Council for Historical Research's initiative to rediscover Muziris, Kerala tourism launched Muziris Heritage Project to revive the lost city.

You can enjoy hop-on hop-off boat service which takes you to various places in the erstwhile Muziris region. The boats are fully air-conditioned, which can accommodate about 25 passengers. The trip starts at 10 AM from Paravur boat jetty and ends at around 6 PM at the same place.

This is first time am traveling in a boat to visit different places.  So for me it was pretty exciting and interesting. The boat was, by my reckoning, very comfortable and far more luxurious than I imagined.

Kerala Jews History Museum (Paravur Synagogue)

Before starting your boat journey, you can first visit the  Paravur Synagoue which is at a  walkable distance from the boat jetty. There are large and small Jewish synagogues in this region.  Among the still existing synagogues, the Paravur synagogue boasts of a long-standing tradition.

Kerala Jews History Museum (Paravur Synagogue)

Jewish Calendar

After crossing the main gate, you can watch Jewish calendar placed beside  the main door. 

A New Bema

The pedestal from where the Torah recital is conducted is called the 'Bema'. The Bema that is now seen in the Paravur synagogue is a careful reconstruction of the Old Bema. The first one was dismantled and taken away to Israel when the worship at this synagogue ceased, it is in the Israel Museum, Jerusalem.

Currently, there are less than fifty Jews residing in Kerala. Nowadays there is no Torah recital  because of less number Jewish men. It is said that atleast 10 Jewish men are required for  Torah recital.

Facing Jerusalem

The Ark is the wooden container in which the Jewish Torah is safely kept; it is also known as the 'Hekel'. This is fixed onto the wall of the synagogue.The traditional custom demands that this installation be done in such a way that the Ark is as close as possible to Jerusalem, the Jewish holy city. At the very least, the place/spot where the Ark is mounted should be facing Jerusalem.

Architectural wonder

Paravur synagogue is an architectural marvel in which the different parts of the structure are linked to one another.

Also the Art works are adorned with exquisite wood-work and decorative carvings. One can easily spot the influence of Spanish and Italian architectural styles in these artifacts.

Chinese Fishing Nets

Then we began our boat journey.  Slowly the Chinese fishing nets started making an appearance with the beautiful backdrop of coconut palms. They look perfect , hanging from the banks and overlooking the waters. Most of them are queued up together in bunches.  At some places, the fishing nets were parked right in the middle of the lake. It is a sight to behold.

Sahodaran Ayyappan House, Pallipuram

Soon we reached Sahodaran Ayyappan Museum jetty. This museum has a waterfront view of the River Periyar. This is the birthplace of Sahodaran Ayyappan - a renowned social reformer, thinker and administrator . The house has a traditional thatched roof (palm leaves, maintained every year).

Next to this house is another house known as 'Math' where the elder brother of Sahodaran Ayyappan - Achuthan Vydiar  lived.

Another building in the compound is a newly built Digital Library. The museum illustrates the life and work of Sahodaran Ayyappan and his movements against the Caste- Madness of the Kerala Society.

Manjumatha Church(Basilica of Our Lady of Snows), Pallipuram

Our next halt was at Manjumatha church. This church was built by the Portuguese for the believers of the surrounding area and dedicated it to Our Lady 1503.

Old Church (left), New church ( center)

There is an interesting story behind the name of the church. The name of the church was Mother Mary or Matha. Legend says that Tipu Sultan camped near Chalakkudy to attack places during his invasion in the 18th century.  The feared local people gathered in the church and prayed to Our Lady for her help. The church and its surrounding area were spread by fog and Tipu's army could not locate the church. After that incident, the church is known as  'Manjumatha church' which means ' Church of Our Lady of Snows. The church was renovated in 1931 and 2006

Fishing Boats

We then traveled through the  Kollam - Kottapuram waterway. Some tourist houseboats and  fishing boats crossed our paths. Colorful fishing boats were parked on the banks, next to the lovely houses.

Fishery Harbour, Munambam

We passed through the Munambam fishing harbour which is one of the best among the nine major fishing harbours in the State.

Fishery Harbour, Munambam

Munambam

We got  a distant view of the  Periyar river joining the Arabian sea. The water shimmerd with blue color. It is a sight to behold.

Munambam

Azhikode Marthoma Church

We passed through the Azhikode Marthoma Church which comes  under the Muziris Heritage Project. I immersed myself watching the water, lush green coconut palms and  villages on the banks of the Periyar.

Azhikode Marthoma Church

Kottappuram Fort

Soon we reached Kottapuram Fort jetty .  Kottappuram Fort, built by the Portuguese in 1523, played a significant role in the wars between the Zamorins of Kozhikode and the rulers of Kochi. History says that, the Dutch tried to capture the fort, following a heavy fight in which the fort was all but destroyed. Now you can see only the remains of the fort. Photography using camera is not allowed but you can use your mobile camera.

Kottapuram Fort 

Knanaya Thomman Church is a nearby place but we skipped this place.

It was already lunch time and our lunch was arranged in a house near to Kottapuram Jetty. Lunch was arranged only for travelers of Muziris boat. After a delicious lunch, we continued our boat journey.

Soon we reached Paliam Jetty.  You have to walk some distance to reach other museums. Since it was already 2 pm and the time is not suitable for a temple visit, we skipped the Chennothrikkovu Vishnu Temple, Bhagavathi temple, and Chedamangalam  Puthiyathrikkovu Siva temple.

Paliam Kovilakom (Kerala History Museum)

Paliath Achans, the prime ministers of the king of Kochi used to live here. Photography is not allowed inside the building. On entering the Palace there is a big elephant carved in wood . The upper level houses the Palace Pooja room where various items used for pooja, like lamps, bells, conch shells are displayed. You can watch the Dutch influence in the architecture. Top of the entrance passage of the Palace is known as Prasanga Peedum, where The Paliath Achans used to address the people. The building features wooden staircases and thick walls .

Paliam Kovilakom (Kerala History Museum)

Paliam Nalukettu (Kerala Lifestyle Museum)

Paliam Nalukettu's are the traditional homesteads (tharavads) where several generations of a matrilineal joint family lived together. The house has a Portico, Inner Hall, Kitchen and four blocks. It has a big courtyard at the centre with rooms surrounding it. There used to be a common dining hall and a common kitchen.

Paliam Nalukettu

I traveled back centuries. It was a nice experience to learn the human experience of this land, through museums and monuments and you will understand the feeling of the people of those times, their sufferings and sorrows, their achievements and contribution.

If you are a fan of history and love to travel, then Muziris tour must be in your list. 

For more information, visit the web page  Muziriswebpage

TICKET CHARGES:

Adult . Rs.550

Children: Rs.400

Senior Citizen Rs.450

Family Ticket : Rs.1500

Students: Rs.325

Foreigner: Rs.2000

Escape from the city : A day in a Fish Farm

I am lucky enough to have traveled quite a fair bit already. From trekking, camping and rafting to photo walks in Mumbai streets, I have had my  phases during my tenure in Mumbai life. My travel experiences are connected with culture and nature and when am coming back with those wonderful memories, I  feel the stuff I missed out in everyday life. 

There are a lot of beautiful places in Kerala State to make any traveler satisfied. For me, Kerala is a less explored place. We have a  tendency to leave nearby places for a 'later' time because it will always be there.

How about spending a day, relaxing on hammocks between shady coconut trees, pedal-boating, meals with fish curry and fish fry, all for Rs.200/- only. Yes, you can visit The Aqua Tourism by Matsyafed, Palaikari - just 23 kms from Kochi. This  is  a 125 hectare wide brackish water fish farm with 4 culture ponds and 3 nurseries on one side and Vembanad Lake on the other side.

It is an easy half an hour drive from Kochi. You can either come for a conducted tour and stay for lunch, or make a weekend of it. 

After taking entry ticket you can walk along the bund through a well laid pathway leading to the aqua tourism centre. There were two view points, from where you can enjoy the beauty of Vembanad Lake. Those who do not want to walk can take a paid speed boat to the centre .

It was an amazing sight to see Vembanad lake, fish farms, coconut trees and water birds.

You can enjoy the stunning atmosphere on both  sides. I kept clicking away my camera while walking. One can even relax in the huts built along the bund.

Soon I reached the main building area where you can spend your full day picnic. The building has a resting place for visitors, kitchen and a dining room.  It is a unique experience to spend a whole day amidst the coconut trees on the bunds.

 
You will pass through small canals which diverts water from the farm  to the Vembanad lake. The centre  helps you in hiring a houseboat to cruise around the islands on Vembanad Lake at extra cost.

ACTIVITIES

If you want to enjoy fishing, the centre offers fishing rods and bait at a nominal amount of Rs.10/-. Fish so caught by the guests are sold to them if they wish.

There is a small park  with a couple of swings and a merry-go-round, which will keep the children engaged.

You can relax on hammocks and seats and enjoy the cool breeze from the Vembanad Lake. Those who want to try Boat Riding have the option of tugboats and pedal boats.

THE  EXOTIC LUNCH WITH FISH CURRY:

I had built an appetite for lunch after exploring the farm for more than 2 hours. They served lunch as part of the package, which included rice, fish curry and fish fry, vegetable gravy, aviyal, thoran and fish pickle. If you want to taste special fish dishes, you can order with extra cost.

Travel is not just about visiting  places and clicking photographs, but travel is also about experiencing.

A day well spent!

Explore South Mumbai by Night with an Open Top Bus Tour

For my last weekend in Mumbai, I wanted to go exploring. I thought it would be cool to look South Mumbai  in the late evening from the upper deck of a bus.

SEE SOUTH MUMBAI BY NIGHT

When the sun goes down and the street lights come on, the illuminated South Mumbai’s famous historical and archaeological buildings give a romantic atmosphere to the city.

An upper deck of a bus tour is the most convenient and fun way to see some famous and historic landmarks in South Mumbai. Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation has arranged the 'Nilambari' open deck bus tour in Mumbai.

The tour guide will give you more information about famous iconic buildings in a way you’d never experienced them during the day. The beautiful colors of the lit-up buildings which come to dominate the skyline is a sight to behold.

WHERE IT GOES

The circuit of 16 places includes Gateway of India - Vidhan Bhavan - Oberoi Hotel - Marine Drive - Churchgate Railway Station - Eros Theatre - Oval Maidan - Maharshi Karve Road - Rajabai Tower- CST Railway Station Building - Hutatma Chowk - Homi Modi Street - Horniman Circle - Asiatic Library - Gateway of India.

TICKETS AND PRICING

The tickets are available from Maharastra Tourism ticket booth at Gateway of India, Mumbai.
Price: Upper Deck- 180/-; Lower Deck - 60/-
This one hour tour is conducted  every Saturday and Sunday. Tours depart at 7:00 PM  and  8:15 PM

Enjoyed  the cool night breeze on an open deck bus on the way heading back to  Gateway of India. This is simply an unforgettable, relaxing and interesting trip to explore Mumbai city.

Photo update: Kala Ghoda Street Festival 2017, Mumbai

This is the third consecutive year I got an opportunity to visit Kala Ghoda Street Festival, Mumbai and was thrilled with the art installations. I visited Rampart Row on the last day of the festival. A large statue of a black horse (Kalal Ghoda) is added at the start of the lane. And it seems horse is the theme this year. You can easily spot different works of arts modeled on a horse structure.

Here then, is the Kala Ghoda Street Festival 2017, through my lens.

The new statue of Kala Ghoda (black horse) at the start of the street

TREE OF HOPE - The installation celebrates the phenomenon of human life having the power to regnite life into others through organ donation

A unique statue of a horse made out of green leaves.

I look forward to see  Kala Ghoda Festival in the coming years with more great art.

A day in Kanyakumari

On my way back from Kuttalam, I was wanting to do something for the next day since it was a Sunday.  Sometimes you need a day when you can just be.  I enquired with the  Kerala Tourism Development Corporation, Thiruvananthapuram and booked my seat for a one day trip to Kanyakumari.

To enjoy the beauty of Kanyakumari, we started our journey from  Thiruvananthapuram early morning at around 7.30 am. Though we were heading to this coastal town in Tamil Nadu state, located at the southernmost tip of India, we decided to stop at a few places in between.

MARVEL AT THE ARCHITECTURE OF PADMANABHAPURAM PALACE

First spot on the way was Padmanabhapuram Palace – The biggest wooden palace in Asia. Situated near Thuckalay, at the foot of the Veli Hills,  it was the erstwhile capital of the Princely State of Travancore.  The fort complex contains several important buildings like the King’s council Chamber, Thai Kottaram, Natakasala and a heritage museum.  This  is one of the property under the Kerala Government in Tamil Nadu. The other one is the Guest house in Kanyakumari.

VISIT TO THE SUCHINDRAM TEMPLE

Out next stop was at Suchindram Temple . This temple is dedicated to Stanumalaya (Shiva, Vishnu, Brahma). The 135 feet tall Gopura is carved into thousands of high relief, exquisitely rendered images of deities and  transcendental pastime scenes. Inside the temple you can watch  the 18 feet Hanuman Statue and the musical pillars.

Just right to the temple is a large water tank with a pillared mandapa, crowned by a vimana in Dravidian style at the center.

Finally, we reached our destination of the day, Kanyakumari. It was already lunch time. We had our lunch from a nearby restaurant. Our next place in the chart was Vivekananda Rock Memorial.

EXPLORE THE VIVEKANANDA ROCK MEMORIAL

Swami Vivekananda Rock Memorial  is a gigantically popular tourist destination in Kanyakumari and is situated on a little rocky island just off the coast, about 500 meters away from the mainland. Built in 1970, this place is an absolute gem.

You can avail ferry service to reach the rocks from the mainland for Rs.20 per person. We busied ourselves with doing nothing - watching the waves and balancing in our seat.

Upon reaching, you need to take an entry fee of Rs.10 per person.  Legend says that Swami Vivekananda came to Kanyakumari on 24.02.1892 and meditated on this rock for few days before his departure for Chicago to participate in the World Religious Conference in 1893.

The best experience is that you can spend some time for meditation at the back side of the Memorial and feel the power that Vivekananda might have felt.

Another building on the rock is Sripada mandapam, which is adjacent to Vivekananda Mandapam, where one can sit in a serene atmosphere and meditate.

Thiruvalluvar Statue is located on one of the two rocks which is adjacent to Swami Vivekananda Rock Memorial separated by about 70 meters. This 133 feet statue is the memorial of the great Tamil poet Saint Thiruvalluvar .

A visit here is one of the most unique things to do in Kanyakumari. Too soon it was time to leave the place and we headed back to the mainland.

RELAX IN TRIVENI SANGAM

Here, the Bay of Bengal meets the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. A dip in the ‘Triveni Sangam’ (confluence of the three seas) at Kanyakumari is considered holy. This is the place where you can see both the sunrise and the sunset.

This place offers a number of beautiful spots to get your pictures clicked. It’s almost impossible to come up with a short phrase to describe this distinctive, genius space.

Sitting on the rocks with sea waves just an arm away is something that should be experienced and not explained. A short meditation can really make you feel so much one with yourself and you almost feel connected to the rest  of the world, and if you close your eyes, the sound of waves hitting the shores is the best music that you can ever hear.

VISIT TO THE TSUNAMI MEMORIAL

As the name suggests, this monument was built in the memory of those who died in the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and tsunami.

DIVINE EXPERIENCE AT KUMARI BHAGAVATHY AMMAN TEMPLE

Probably the most famous place to visit in Kanyakumari is the Kumari Bhagvaty Amman Temple. According to legend, this 3000 years old temple is dedicated to the goddess Parvati who appeared in a form of Kanyakumari as the Kanya Devi, the virgin goddess.

 

HANG OUT AT GANDHI MEMORIAL

Visiting Gandhi Memorial is an altogether  different experience. It is said that after the assassination of Gandhiji  in 1948, the urn containing his ashes was kept here for the public to pay their homage before being immersed in the Triveni Sangam. The architectural style of Gandhi Memorial resembles that of Odisha temples. The height of the central dome is 79 feet, representing Gandhi’s age when he died. 

Gandhi Memorial Kanyakumari

HEADING HOME

In the evening,  we bid goodbye to Kanyakumari wishing to return back at any given opportunity. An ideal day when nothing was required but just to enjoy being.

Road trip to Kuttalam

Thiruvananthapuram, the capital of Kerala, has many places that can be easily accessed over a long weekend. I was keen to go on a long drive in my Wagon R and so me and my friend decided to head to Kuttalam in the Kerala - Tamilnadu boarder.

The objective of the trip was to explore the road to Thenmala, Chenkotta and Kuttalam. The route offers an ideal option for those seeking solitude. You can find several temples at regular intervals and you will come across some of the most stunning landscapes.

Our Itinerary:
Thiruvananthapuram - Nedumangad - Palode - Kulathupuzha - Thenmala (73 kms) - Chenkotta - Kuttalam

I started early from Thiruvananthapuram so as to beat the city traffic. My friend joined me from Nedumangad . A little into the drive, I discovered that both of us are music lovers especially good old Malayalam songs, since both us are almost in the same age group.

First spot on the way was the Kulathupuzha Sastha temple, dedicated to Lord Ayyappa. But we skipped this to cover during our return journey as we had to reach Kuttalam by afternoon. After having some snacks from the roadside eateries, we again started our drive to Kuttalam. You will love the atmosphere and surroundings in this route.  Just as we made our way up the ghats it started drizzling. I opened the window of the car to let the cool breeze blow right into the car.

Our next stop was at Pallamvetti Mahadeva temple. People from far off places who do not have children come here with dresses for babies which are tied onto the branches of trees.

Our next stop was Saddledam Dam - the boating centre of Thenmala ecotourism centre and is located at Pallamvetty. Since monsoon season was over, there was less water in the Dam. The Dam premises has a unique scenic beauty and hillocks of high lush evergreen forests.

We had pit stop to take photograph of the newly constructed 13-arch flyover for Punaloor - Chenkotta Meter Gauge.   Punalur-Shencotta metre-gauge line is the century-old flyover along the Western Ghats near Thenmala.

By now we were driving along the hill road.  Good road condition and pleasant weather made our drive enjoyable.  The picturesque lush green surroundings is sure to mesmerise you. You will come across many monkeys in this area, jumping on the branches of trees, sitting along the road and grabbing food bags from tourists.

Finally, we reached near our destination for the day, Shencotta. Kuttalam is just 7 kms from Shencotta. Exceptionally picturesque drive with dense vegetated fields and accompanying river streams resulted in frequent halts for photography.

You will love the atmosphere and surroundings of this spot. Our  lunch was on our way to Kuttalam, a typical Non Veg Thali which offers locally sourced cuisine  in a very relaxed atmosphere. Chicken was highly featured in the menu. After having lunch, we again started our drive to Kuttalam.

We were lucky to see the majestic Kuttalam waterfalls.This is the most important spot in the region. As the monsoon season was over, water was flowing in a narrow lane.

Kuttalam waterfalls

And I walked towards my car bidding adieu to the place, where I vowed to come again.

We were lucky to see the beautiful view of  sun rays shining on the top of the hills during sunset on our way back to Shencotta.

The green drive and the pretty roads will leave you awed, while the idyllic beauty of the journey and the destination will make you cool.

Photo Update: Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2016

This is the second time I got an opportunity to visit Kochi-Muziris Biennale for its 3rd edition and was thrilled with  the art installations. 

I started from Aspinwall House and then visited Greenix  and  Pepper House exhibits. On the way I stopped at various art installations, and clicked pictures of interesting art installations and information relating to them.

 Here then, is the Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2016, through my lens:

The Pyramid of Exiled Poets an installation by Slovenian litterateur Ales Steger  at Aspinwall House, Fort Kochi

The Sea of Pain, an installation by Chilean poet Raul Zurita at Aspinwall House, Fort Kochi

Dance of Death,  an installation by Yardena Kurulkar at Aspinwall House, Fort Kochi . Yardena Kurulkar creates a point of confrontation between life and death by mixing media with light bulbs

Big Dog, an installation by Chinese artist Liu Wei at Aspinwall House, Fort Kochi . Big Dog ia a large sculptural installation crafted primarily from oxhide dog chews.

Ghost Keeping, a sculptural installation by Romanian artist Istvan Csakany, depicting a textile factory at Aspinwall House, Fort Kochi .

Cut out Archive-Schoolpurchase in Coir an installation by Pranith Soyi at Pepper House, Fort Kochi.