Ten hours Of Sightseeing, Travelling And Exploring from Munnar to Kanthalloor in KSRTC bus

No matter how many times you  have visited Munnar, you may never discover it enough.  A vista of how Munnar was this season was the blue Jacaranda  flowering  at its crazy best. This is what I love about repeated visits to Munnar, it is new everytime!

This time I got an opportunity for sightseeing by bus in quite a different way and enjoy a unique ride through the tea-carpeted hills.  Munnar KSTRC has come up with a special package that will take you on a budget-free tour from Munnar to Kanthalloor.  Kanthalloor is located 57km from Munnar. The costs for one day journey is Rs 300. The bus carrying tourists starts at 9.30 am from Munnar KSRTC old depot and had one hour halt in each stop.

The first stop in our chart was Tata Tea Museum  which is located at 2 km from the centre of Munnar. Entry fee is Rs.125 per head. It is a part of the Nallathanni Estate of Tata Tea.  A 30 minute documentary feature by the museum will give you the opportunity to watch the transition from the rudimentary tea roller to the modern fully automated tea factory. 

Next stop was at Estate photo point. Surrounded by the Tata Tea gardens of the Kanan Devan Hills and a string of silver oak trees with the backdrop of the vast expanse of the Sahyadri ranges, this is the perfect spot to relish the beauty of Munnar

There is a small road side tea stall selling tea and snacks. We had tea and proceeded to Marayoor.  Twists in the road reveal vistas so vast and breathtaking that  they’re distracting.

Further the road goes on through Marayoor natural sandal reserve. The forest department has rightly put high fence to prevent illegal activities. We could see the sandal trees on either side of the road.

The Jacaranda trees are in full bloom in this stretch just before reaching Lakkom falls. Local people call it ‘Neelavaka’.  Jacaranda indicates spring season. British brought Jacaranda to Munnar during colonization to beautify the hills and estate bungalows. It is one of the 49 species of flowering plants in the family of Bignoniaceae, and is native to South America.

Next stop was at Lakkom waterfalls. Entry fee is Rs.50 per head.  The waterfall is close to the main road. You have to climb few steps to reach the falls from the main road. Originating from the Eravikulam National Park, the stream cascade down from the rocky cliffs. Further we walked down through the road and then through tea estate to reach the natural pool.  I walked along the paths between the carpet of green.

There are a whole lot of plants and shrubs around the pool that add to the scenic view.  A dip in the cold yet refreshing water is all you need on a hot summer's day.

A pretty drive through the sandalwood forests will take you to the sugarcane blossoming village. When you hear Marayoor, Marayoor jaggery and Marayoor sandalwood come to mind. As the name suggests, there are many jaggery making centers in Marayoor. Farmers are benefitted by making significant changes in the production of Marayoor Jaggery with the availability of Geo-Index status. As result,  black-colored jaggery is now in high demand in the market.

Most of these factories are largely without mechanization or infrastructure and these production units are still man-made. Now 12 months full mature sugarcane is used  for the production of Marayoor Jaggery. The juice obtained from the crushing of sugarcane is transferred to a large iron vessel through a tube, which is then boiled over a fire and reduced to a paste-like jaggery. The product here is this rolled jaggery. It is sold in many places in Marayoor.

Most of the people who work here are attached to these grass-fed jaggery units for accommodation, cooking and caring for children.

Muniyara's are famous in Marayoor. Tourists often visit the munirs at Anakottupara. We use Stone Age culture to describe the way of life of human beings a thousand or two thousand years before the year of Christ. The muniyara's were the burial chambers of the time. The muniyara's look like two layers of rock steep and another layer of rock fixed on top of it. Some say that the 'soul' resided in muniyara's after death. Those remains are still intact in Marayoor. The muniyara's will help us to go back in time to history.

Finally we reached our last place in our chart -  Kanthalloor. Kanthalloor is situated on the eastern side of the Western Ghats on the border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, between Munnar and Udamalpet. It is at an altitude of about 5000 feet above sea level. This is favourable for the natural farming of many fruits like apple, blackberry, orange, plums, strawberry, passion fruit, etc. and vegetables like Cauliflower, carrot, potato, garlic, cabbage, beans etc.are grown in plenty.   We visited one of the private farm. The best season to visit Kanthalloor is from August to October. Because of the off season there was not much fruits and vegetables. There isn’t much to do here, but that’s part of the charm.

As we made our way back to Munnar, we passed through Nachivayal, Kovilkadavu.  Not only do you get to cruise through a sandal forest reserve but, more often than not, you will spot a herd of deer.

From 6 pm onwards, the mist would be my constant companion through the ride. It was already dark when we reached Munnar at around 7 pm. By that time the chill in the air had picked up.

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A Spiritual Adventure To Agasthyakoodam

When I was standing at the top of Kathirumudi mountain a year ago, I got the magnificent view of Agasthyakoodam. Since then it was a wish that I had kept in my mind to reach  the top of Agasthyakoodam and take the blessings of Agasthya Muni.

I booked my seat in December for the 3 days Agasthyakoodam trek which started on 12 th Feb, I started my preparations both physically and mentally. With a simple mission of being fit I started walking each morning. And was extra cautious in my diet to maintain my health. Usually season pilgrimage to Agasthyakoodam starts in January for two months. This year there was no season  to Agasthyakoodam due to Covid 19 and only special pass entry is allowed.

Finally the day came. On 11th February evening four of us started from Ernakulam in a private car. Ended our day with a sound accommodation at Rohini International, Vithura.  Had a good sleep.

Day 1 : 12 February 21 - All geared up for the trek. 18 km from Bonakkad  to Athirumala Base Camp.

Had breakfast and assembled at Vithura at around 7.30 am. It is around 14 kms from Vithura to Bonakkad. There is a check post on the way  - Kanithadam checkpost and one need to take permission to enter the area. From there, the hill range starts. There are few hairpin bends  on the way to Bonakkad.

The trek starts from Bonacaud picket station. After checking the entry pass, photo id and Covid Negative certificate , we started our trek at around 9.30 am with packed lunch. It is only after we vow to respect the forest and its inhabitants that we gain entry to one of the important parts on the Western Ghat ranges.

The Agasthyakoodam  is valued by scientists for its unparalleled biological diversity, as it is home to more than 300 rare birds and over 2000 medicinal plants. found nowhere else. The rivers, Karamanayar, Neyyar and Thirunelveli  originate from this place. This place is also lush together with Chenthuruni, Peppara, Neyyar and  Kalakkad Wildlife Sanctuaries. The peak is located within the Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary.

The initial stretch from the picket station  is through thick deciduous and semi-evergreen forests. There are five camps in between Bonacaud Picket Station and Athirumala base camp, around two kilometers apart.  We stopped some time at the gushing Karamanayar  river  and had an energizing bath and a well deserved lunch.

Karamanayar river

I walked through the forest and meadows gurgling with small rivulets. After crossing lathimotta camp, Karamanayar river and Vazhapaithyar camp , we reached Attayar camp. From here the trek becomes slightly more challenging due to the rapid ascend into open grasslands. I fell into a rhythm, enjoying the simplicity of walking.  A little further ahead of the Attayar Camp, you get the first glimpse of the towering Agasthyakoodam Peak. This stretch is dangerous as there is a chance to see  wild animals.

Once you cover the grasslands, the final stretch to Athirumala involves a vertical climb through evergreen forests.  We could hear the sound of a Sloth Bear in the distance all along the way.

And the humble signboard welcomed us to the Athirumala Base Camp .

 It would be anywhere between 5 pm by the time we reached the base camp. Upon reaching, the authorities verified our pass. Dumping my luggage, I  straight dashed off for a Kattan Chai (black tea).

Athirumala base camp has four sheds covered by metal  sheets in blue color and another small area for cooking.  The site was protected from wild animals by a moat and has all basic amenities  for bath and toilets in decent condition .

There is a small river flowing beside the camp site. There was no power connection to the camp site and it was fully dependent upon solar energy. As per the camp rule, all lights will be switched off at 9 pm. By 8 pm, our dinner was ready. The staff were so friendly and they served us hot vegetarian food - rice, sambar and pappad.

They supplied mat and common shed for multiple teams.  I realised how cold it was outside before crawling into my sleeping bag. And heavy wind began to drum a beat on the metal sheet. I was warming in my sleeping bag.

Day 2: 13 Feb 21 : Today was the day to accomplish our goal to reach the top of Agasthyakoodam. 6km from Athirumala Base Camp and back.

When I stepped out of shed, I saw the magnificent view of Agasthyakoodam. The sky was clear.

A view of Agasthyarkoodam from the base

Named after  Agasthya, the most respected Vedic sage of Hinduism,  whose final resting place was on its peak, Agasthyakoodam or Agasthyarkoodam, was declared as Biospeare reserve on March 19, 2016.  The peak of Agasthyarkoodam can only be reached by trekking to it

There is an interesting mythological story about this place. During the marriage of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati,  all the Gods, the great sages and many other creatures traveled to Mt. Kailasa. . As a result of this huge gathering, the northern part of the land plunged. Lord Siva summoned Agastya and bade him to go south, to restore the balance of the earth.   Accordingly, the Rishi then traveled south. Alas, Agastya established his residence on the south, and never went back to the north. With his presence in the south, the weight of his ascetic merit served to restore the balance of the world.

When I tried to zoom the middle portion of the mountain, I could see Agasthya, In the end, our devotion makes one place holy and we could see the divine everywhere.

Freshened up with the super cold water, got ready with packed lunch  and at around 8 am, with the hope of good weather, a group of 29 enthusiasts, headed to the terrain of Agasthyakoodam which is a trek uphill. It is located at an elevation of 1868 meters from sea level, each of us along with guides was ready to conquer the challenges of terrain and make spectacular memories along the way. 

To keep our luggage light, we carried  only water bottles, snacks and a cap for sun protection apart from our packed lunch.  The gradient is moderate plus to difficult through dense forest, bamboo covers and steep rocky climb.  Rivulets and small waterfalls doted the way. 

When we  go up, we could see the camp site as a blue spot below amidst the greenery.

After around 1.5 kms, the forest cover thins out into a rocky bamboo trail. You will also be greeted with majestic views of the Agasthyakoodam peak  along with mesmerising views of the valley down below.

At around 2.5 kms, the trail opens out into a large rocky area with a narrow stream cutting across the middle and the Agasthyakoodam peak now standing intimidatingly on your right.

Cross over the stream and climb up the other side across a ridge to reach another wide open area called ‘Pongalappara’ . I stepped carefully over the rocks.

One could say this is from where the actual climb starts as the rocky plains now merge yet again into a narrow bonsai forest trail with almost 2 kms left towards the peak.  This place is known as Muttidichanmala. It is an oasis of green amid  the mountains surrounding it.

The trail now climbs over three vertical rock surface, one after the other. The ropes provided here help you to an extent to make this part of the climb  which ultimately lead to the topmost point.

It is customary to go barefoot in the final rock patch,  So I  climbed  barefoot..

Finally at the top!!! By 12 pm, we reached the top of Agasthyarkoodam.  This is the place I really wanted to visit for the past several years and I consider this as a major highlight in my life. 

This is the perfect spot for peak viewing. The citadel with its monastery looks spectacular with a fine line of clouds and the summit of the five peaked mountain range- Pandavan Mala- as a backdrop. Another popular views from the peak are Peppara and Neyyar Dams. We were engaged in clicking pictures. I just sat there for few minutes. It was awe inspiring.

A small patch of forest in the middle of the peak is home to the revered shrine of Agasthya Muni, well protected from the strong winds. Then  I offered prayers and that was enough to fill my heart.

Murti of Agasthya Muni at the top of Agasthyamalai hill

After taking the blessings of the Hindu seer, we started our descend. The descend being almost as adventurous as the climb. We took a halt near Pogalapara. Had an energizing bath and took rest for some time till other team members reached. That night, I had a tasty meal of homemade food -  rice, sambar, kuttu curry and pickle.

Day 3: 14 Feb.21-  Back to Bonakkad…End of the trek 

Started our trek back to the Bonacaud Forest Check Post by 8 am in order to avoid the harsh sun later on during the trek. The return journey is via the same trail used to reach the basecamp on day one. And I reached the Picket station by 1 pm. Without a second thought I can say it is one of the best and most relaxed trek I had till date and will be cherished for long.

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Chasing Palakkad's iconic Ramassery Iddly in Alappuzha

Can I eat the famous Ramessery Idli without travelling all the way to Palakkad ?. That was the question in my mind for the past few months. Finally my dream came true as KTDC Ripple Land Restaurant, Alappuzha organized a five day 'idli festival'.

The crowd was less than I expected on a Saturday and when I entered the food stall which was temporarily arranged in the parking area, the air with the smell of different types of idlis, held a delicious promise. Here five types of idlis were served - egg, chicken ,sambar, seafood and  chocolate idlis.

The genesis of these idlis can be traced to  people who migrated from Kanchipuram in Tamilnadu to Palakkad  in search of employment.  I stood for sometime at the cooking area  to watch the making of these Idlies. They are  flat, similar to dosa in shape and only half an inch thick.  An eight inch round clay containers are covered with pieces of wet cotton cloth. A ladle full of batter is poured on each of the prepared clay steamer containers. These are then stacked one over the other, and carefully placed in the steamer. The steamer is then covered with another blackened pot. 

This flat shaped idli is best enjoyed with sambar , chutney powder, coconut chutney and spicy onion chutney.  It is worthy that Alapuzha can enjoy the taste of Palakkad's Ramassery idli  without travelling to Palakkad.

In the afternoon, I went for a boat ride starting at 1.30 pm. To explore  the  backwaters of Alappuzha  in a budget  friendly way, I took  government ferry travels from Alappuzha to Kainakary.  Ticket for upper deck is Rs.60 in one way per person. 

This one and half hour journey gave me a chance to see the village life from the boat,  women washing clothes and  men fishing along the way.  The surrounding is lush green with a large spread of water, small canals, lush green paddy fields, small boats, house boats packed with tourists, cormorants and toddy shops dotting the entire landscape. I reached Kainakary at around 3.30 pm. There was a halt and had tea and snacks . 

Returned to  Alappuzha at around 5 pm.  Drifting down the backwaters of Alappuzha  is an quintessential experience.

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